A long road? Not as long as the last one! Again reached by bus from Malaga. Journey time 3 hours 45 minutes, with a comfort break in Granada. An observation, if you want to stay on good terms with the driver don’t march up behind him and demand “in English” when he’s delivering his loading instructions! People never cease to amaze.
On board, sit back, relax and enjoy the view. Spring time landscape! Various shades of green, with flowers blooming in red, yellow and purple after some much needed rain. Surrounded by olive groves of inland Andalucia, the town is set in Jaen province.
What’s on offer?
A collection of churches? Yes but there’s more. Palaces and mansions, beautiful renaissance buildings. It´s an architectural delight.
Santa Maria de Ubeda on Plaza de Vazquez de Molina Square one of the towns’ most notable landmarks. Inside it’s stunning and surprisingly light.
Head from here to the Paseo de la Redonda de Miradores (Paseo de las Muralles) for breathtaking views of Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas / Sierra Magina. No fotos folks. My photography skills wouldn’t do these vistas justice. You need to go see for yourself and the light changes everything. It’s a circular walk and I would definitely recommend a stop along the way at Suspiro Gastrobar.
Sinagoga del Agua an interesting and tranquil place. Not an attraction I’d heard of but suggested by my hosts. Definitely worth a look but it’s guided tours only. Two things to note. 1. The tour is in Spanish. Written information is available in English. 2. If you want to book on-line and are a solo traveler, no can do. Minimum booking is for 2 people. INICIO – English – Sinagoga del Agua
Palacio Vela de los Cobos now this is a place I wanted to see. But how do you get in? Book a tour (usually 2 per day) at the Semur office, across the street, a few doors up. Seems simple enough?
As you approach you see a lady locking up and leaving. Ah, the office is closed, she needs to nip out. No problem, you come back 10 minutes later and look through the glass door. No one to be seen behind the counter. You assume lady is still MIA. Wrong. Try the door, she’s not sitting behind the counter you can see, she’s hiding behind a high counter to your right, out of sight. And guess what, the next scheduled tour, that fits your plan, is completo.
Note to self, even if the place looks empty, try the door. Palacio Vela de los Cobos, one for next time!
Finding Flamenco
Hospital de Santiago Ayuntamiento de Úbeda – Portal Turístico – Hospital de Santiago (turismodeubeda.com) Not only a fabulous building but the beautiful setting for the concert that brought me here, amongst other things. Sandra Carrasco, David de Arahal and Los Mellis de Huelva performing “Recordando a Marchena” in the Auditorium. Carrasco & de Arahal have released the book-album “Remembering Marchena”, which includes texts by the journalist, writer and Flamenco critic Manuel Martin Martin, as well as recordings made during the concert tour. The show pays tribute to the figure of Pepe Marchena.
Eateries
Let’s start with breakfast: Cafeteria Las Flores offers good coffee and a great selection of tostadas. Pleasant atmosphere with seating inside and out. Churreria & Cafeteria Nazaries again good coffee and tostadas but the star of the show was definitely the churros! Both places hit the mark on quality and value for money. Pleasant staff.
Lunch or Dinner? I’ve already mentioned Suspiro. So moving on, Cafe Libra on Plaza de Andalucia is fine spot to dine and people watch, opposite El Torre del Reloj. A tapa comes with your drink, they offer a good Menu Del Dia and a more than decent selection of Raciones and Bocadillos. Tuna omelet sandwich – don’t knock it till you’ve tried it.
And to finish off. How about an ice cream? Valencianos is the place to go as recommended by Manolo. 
Outdoor pursuits your thing or some sketching?
From the Paseo de la Redonda de Miradores (Paseo de las Muralles) you can access bike and hiking routes, through this marvelous landscape. And if you fancy visiting the neighboring town of Baeza, there’s a cycle route between the two. If your more artistic than sporty then you need out get out quick to grab your spot for the best views, this town has to offer. Or you could set up shop in the bus station, quite a studio!
My Accommodation
Alojamiento Discover Ubeda (via Booking.com other booking platforms are available) Situated at the top of Calle Real, in the heart of the centro historico. A prime location. A short walk, 10 mins from the bus station. What did I like? Everything! This place was spotless and had everything I needed. It was beautifully decorated and very comfortable. But what stood out? The welcome! My host Manolo went the extra mile with a mini tour of the town, courtesy of him and his partner Paula, to help me get my bearings.
Would I stay here again? Without a doubt. However, one thing to point out. It’s on the corner of a busy street of restaurants. These open late and close even later as in the early morning hours. When I come back, I´ll be packing ear plugs just in case.
Back to the start @ the bus station
I’m a fan of the Alsa app. I’ve said it before. Its easy to use, guarantees your seat and saves you queuing. But here’s a tip when you are searching for your trip check the journey details and make a note. The main connecting station and the final destination may not be where you’re headed but they may be the only places listed on the departure board.
Granada is connection central. So, if your heading to Ubeda and there are 3 buses leaving Malaga at the same time, how do you know which one is yours. If you don’t speak Spanish, finding out might be a bit of a challenge. Hence, check the route before clicking that button, to book.
Feedback & sharing! If you visit any of the places I’ve featured, I hope you’re not disappointed and please let them know who led you to their door. Muchas gracias.