Sizzling Seville – Wondrous in Winter & Special in Spring

Seville the hottest city in Europe? Probably! Getting there – it’s easy to each from Malaga via bus or train from the respective stations at Maria Zambrano . The direct bus service gets you to Plaza de Armas in 2 hours 45 mins. If you opt for the train, the fastest service will get you to Santa Justa in 2 hours 2 mins . These two stations are both on the east side of the river, the city centre but a 40 minute walk apart.

This is a 2 for 1 post. Drawing info from a delightful few days in December and a weekend visit in April. There’s something about Seville! No matter when you visit, don’t forget to look up and take in those skies!

Day Tripper? If you’re on holiday and staying elsewhere, Costa del Sol perhaps. An organized trip will give you a glimpse of this marvelous city but just a glimpse. But you do get to enjoy being on the bus for an hour before you even get out of Malaga. There’s so much to explore in Seville. I’ve not covered half of it here. Two weekend trips and I’ll be back – soon.

Things to do – places to see

If you want to locate the top sights, without pounding the pavements, there’s a choice of sightseeing bus options. Go green with Alsa. There’s a 5 euro discount is available via a scanned code for those who travel to Seville with Alsa.

La Catedral de Seville You can just admire it’s architecture from outside or if you choose to visit the cathedral I’d strongly recommend the roof top tour. It’s guided for obvious reasons and you wouldn’t want to get lost up there. It offers the most awe inspiring views of the city and life on the ground. I took this tour on a sunny morning in December 2023 and the guide was an excellent narrator, without hitting information overload. A thoroughly pleasant way to spend a couple of hours. Seville Cathedral Tour (catedraldesevilla.com)

Plaza de España A famous landmark on the east side of the city, just perfect for a stroll. Just admire the architecture or be entertained by the numerous artists performing for free but hoping for a donation. For the more adventurous and energetic there are boats for hire too. Don’t miss out on the heavenly gardens that surround this monument either.

Plaza de Toros (de la Maestranza) Most Spanish cities have one and Seville is no exception, east side again close to the river. You can´t miss it. Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza – Empresa Pagés – Sevilla

La Setas de Sevilla Something less traditional, modern & amazing in itself. Originally called Metropol Parasol, it’s a large, predominantly wooden structure located at La Encarnación square, in the old quarter. It’s home to a traditional market, restaurants, a performance square, archaeological museum — and ‘rooftop’ terrace with panoramic views. Inicio – Setas de Sevilla

Let’s not forget the Guadalquivir River This green river, divides the city and a relaxing boat trip offers views of both sides.

Oh and did I mention the shops on both the east and west sides !

Let’s cross the River into Triana

A fine neighborhood with a history of it’s own.

Castillo de Triana: Ferdinand III of Castile destroyed this citadel and the bridge before taking Seville in 1248. The castle of Triana later became the first Christian church in the neighborhood now known as Castillo de San Jorge. Under the rule of the Catholic Monarchs, the castle of Triana served as the seat of the Spanish Inquisition from 1481 until 1785.

The current bridge, the iconic Puente de Isabel II  was built in 1854. It replaced the earlier boat-bridge and remains a symbol of the neighborhood.

For centuries, Triana has been a neighborhood of sailors, potters and industrialists. It has a vibrant artistic scene that has contributed significantly to Sevillian culture and tradition. Get your ceramics here. It has a rich flamenco culture and gained fame through it’s bullfighters, singers and flamenco artists. The gypsy influence is undeniable and adds so much to the rich tapestry of the community.

Teatro de Triana – December 2023 Triana le Canta a la Navidad – Triana sings to Christmas. What a show and what an experience! Local artists from the community presenting and interpreting traditional songs from Christmas in times gone by. The strong gypsy influence was present and the talent on show was amazing. The atmosphere, a great sense of community and pride.

My ticket said the performance was 8 till 9.30 doors open 30 mins in advance. Excellent, time for dinner after the show. I left at 11.30! Just a tad late, am I glad I stayed till the end? Yes most definitely and you can always grab an Argentinian Empanada or 2 on the way home. Nothing lost! Teatro de Triana and the community who contribute to it, deserve support. It was a great night. El Teatro deTriana

Flamenqueria Sevilla – April 2024 Intimos de Triana – Lela Soto y Jose Del Tomate

I think I need to be clear here, this is not and should not be confused with a “Flamenco Show”. An introduction to Intimos. What’s an intimo? An intimate performance, in a small venue with limited seats. The maximum for this event was 90. What do you get? An amazing totally acoustic performance. Raw, simple, perfect. Up close and personal. No frills but none needed, the talent of these two shone through. Mid-way percussion arrived, impromptu or late? Not sure, just another surprise. Flamenquería (flamenqueria.es)

Scrumptious servings

Lets do this in order, breakfast, lunch and dinner! December 23 then April 24.

Curros – Calle Feria 57. Close to Almeda de Hercules on the east side of the city. Where the locals buy their bread. Not flash but offering good wholesome fare to set you up for the day. I’ve eaten here on several occasions and never been disappointed. If your passing later in the day, consider a cake.

Divino – at the top or perhaps the bottom of Almeda de Hercules. A great spot to grab some lunch and a refreshing beer, more than pleasant and outside in the winter sunshine.

La Ilustre, un bar etc. It does what it says, serves beer, wine, cocktails and food in a nice atmosphere but what made the difference for me, was the staff. I was enjoying my wine and pondering over the menu, I didn´t want a big plate. One of the guys behind the bar kindly asked if I’d prefer some tapas outside of the menu and gave some options. It was spot on, just what I wanted.

It was a relatively quiet night in December and it’s not a big bar, 3 or 4 tables were occupied at the time so I don´t know if this is the norm but hat’s off to them! I’d definitely go back, the chicken curry and couscous was delicious as was everything else I sampled.

Triana – Cafe Bravo – Sunday morning it’s a haven for locals, catching up with friends or reading the paper. Staff and customers alike were welcoming and I had a delicious breakfast served in a modern, chilled setting. I doubt they can be beaten on value for money.

Puente de Barcas – Cafe y Copas I dropped in here on my way from the bus station to my accommodation. It wasn´t far of closing time for the afternoon siesta, essentially they had stopped serving food. Not to worry, the waitress was happy to serve up a hot pork & cheese sandwich with my beer. Again, it’s the staff that make the place.

Bodeguita Albero I was looking for dinner on route to Flamenqueria, “Orillas de Triana” and came across this place. What a find! Cannot recommend it enough. Simple, clean decor, great menu with plenty of choice and serves the best Rulo de Cabra Caramelizado, I have ever tasted. I took advice from the waiter and downsized my ensaladilla de casa to a tapa portion in preference to a medio racion. He was right! A half portion would have been way too much and the tapa left just enough room for me to try a dessert. I was not disappointed, it was divine. It was so good I went back the next night. Might sound boring but……..

Where did I hang my hat?

In two different neighborhoods and in two contrasting styles of accommodation. Both equally as good but different. Right, from the off, let’s start with locations and the welcomes.

Mid December 2023 I stayed at Feria Palace Apartment. On the east side, close to Almeda de Hercules. I was made welcome by my host Daniel, we had quite a chat. The apartment was lovely, everything I needed was on hand. And the best part of this experience, the setting, a beautiful building with a traditional Sevillian patio. The bedroom is a mezzanine, just so pretty. Who knows what is hidden behind those insignificant wood doors.

Moving on to April 2024 I moved to the west side of the river. The welcome – an email when I made the booking 3 months ago. Nothing wrong with that, it contained all the necessary information for an easy check-in I just forgot to read it again! Only personal contact with the host a quick phone call when I was on the street looking for the “puerta” but nevertheless a great place to stay. “Villa Triana“ the name of my home for the weekend. Big hint here? Mmm sort of, it’s in Triana but it’s not a villa.

I hope you are lucky enough to get the opportunity to visit Seville and enjoy what it has to offer. If you swing by or stop at any of the places mentioned here let them know where you got the tip. Muchas gracias. Happy & safe travelling.