Part 2 – Moving to Sacromonte a traditional neighbourhood in the eastern area of the city that forms the urban district of Albaicín. It is located on the hillside and in the valley of Valparaíso, opposite the Alhambra. The neighborhood occupies both banks of the Darro river. Historically, the neighborhood of the Granadian Romani, it is one of the most picturesque areas of the city and home to traditional cave houses. The Romani of Sacromonte were famously portrayed by the poet Federico García Lorca in his book of poems Romancero Gitano.
Bar Pibe not a new find
The smallest bar in the world? !quite possibly¡ But definitely not to be missed and one of my favourite spots. It’s a huge disappointment if there’s no room at the inn. What’s not to like? Sit on the terraza, enjoy a beer and the traditional tapa. For the tapa, you don’t get to choose but it’s all good and if you have a second, it’ll be different. Relax and take in the view. If you get chance, pop in doors but keep your head down.
Sacromonte Abbey (Abadía del Sacromonte)
One of the city’s most important buildings. Perched on Valparaíso hill, the abbey takes a leading role at important points within the city’s festive calendar, including the procession of the Christ of the Gypsies, the most famous within Granada’s Holy Week. Within the building complex, you can see the Holy Caves, the seminary, the lead books and the relics of the disciples of Saint James the Apostle.
Sometimes, I just want to look at stuff, take in the architecture and atmosphere in these buildings. Based on that, what worked for me was the App that comes with this self-guided tour. No clunky handset, no dodgy earbuds and it’s easy to navigate.
Just listen to what’s of interest to you. And take in the enviable views that the Abadía offers you. Look across and down to Sacromonte, the Alhambra, Albaicín and the Darro. Well worth the 6 euro entry. And how lucky was I? The morning of my visit, it was choir practice, so atmospheric.
Inicio – Proyecto Abadia (abadiasacromonte.org) . You’ll have gathered by now, I’m a walker but if you want to take the bus, hop on the C34 from the city centre and it will get you within striking distance.
A lesson learnt
A weekend visit in November 2023. Having been here before, I came with a plan and arrived Friday afternoon. I’d done some homework but not enough. I chose my accommodation, Habitacion con encanto, based on facilities and location to suit what I thought I’d be doing on Saturday evening, visiting a local Peña.
Peña La Plateria to be specific Peña La Platería – Velando por el flamenco desde 1949 (laplateria.es) . Why? Alejandro Hurtado would be performing his new album Tamiz. I had tried to book in advance without success, no response to an email.
My host, Gregorio gave me directions, just around the corner, great! Off I went to book a table, what I didn’t know – Saturday evenings are “Socios” only. You need to be a member! I’d be welcome on a Thursday but not a Saturday. I was not unfamiliar with the concept of Peñas, I visit them in my home town, it’s the rules that are individual. I find them to be great venues so it’s not a criticism, just do plenty of research. If you don’t know the rules be prepared to be disappointed.
My New Find
Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I was a winner here. Role with it. Change the plan! I was lucky enough to pick up a ticket to Vanessa Flores (Baile) “Mi puresa, Flores” which in itself would have been enough. She’s a fantastic dancer! But the venue! La Chumbera – Sacromonte, wow……………..! I’m not going to reveal what makes this place so special, I had no idea but if you get the chance go. If you’re in Granada look out for the program information from Patrimonio Flamenco. They are performances of this art, not flamenco shows.
Charming Room ‘Habitacion con encanto‘
It’s exactly what it says. In a good location, not far from the main thoroughfares and close to the Río Darro. Searching the street for the right door I was greeted by my host, Gregorio, with a cheery ‘hola’ from a balcony high above. The room had everything I needed and nothing was a bother.
Fuel for the day
More food choices, you can’t beat a traditional Spanish breakfast to start your day. Another of my favourite spots, is 4 Gatos. In Albaicín but relatively easy to find. It’s not big, the staff are friendly and pleasant, the menu simple. Dine outside, take in the view, chill and enjoy the coffee!
Feedback & Sharing
I hope you’ve enjoyed this post but more importantly, are inspired to visit Granada and experience what it has to offer for yourself. If you get chance mention and share! Comments to improve, appreciated. Muchas Gracias.