Granada, Part 1!
It’s becoming my second home. I visit this city often. I never tire of it and I have not seen it all. It’s famous for it’s main and best known attraction, the legendary and awe inspiring Alhambra but it has so much more to offer. It’s easy to reach by bus or train from Malaga. My preference the bus, based on cost and availability. A short and comfortable 1.5 hour journey time.
The bus station is a hub for connections and onward journeys, so not located in the city centre. However, the bus line 33 will get you to within easy reach of the Alhambra and the Albaicín and Sacromonte quarters or you can walk. It’s flat and only takes around 30-40 mins. This way you get the chance to see a little more or stop for a coffee. There are plenty of local cafeteria’s to choose from along the way.
If you’re staying on the Costa del Sol and want to mix things up with a cultural day trip, Granada’s a great choice. If you’re organised you can do the “main attraction” in a day. Here’s my problem, I’m organised and chaotic at the same time. I get distracted and wander off. Who knows what you might find or where the time goes! Hence my frequent weekend trips. They allow for me getting caught up in the magic of things I find and turning this post into a mini series.
The Main Attraction! The Alhambra
Let’s get the Alhambra done. Unmissable? Yes. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. It is a palace and fortress complex and one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and best preserved palaces of the historic, Islamic world. In addition it also contains notable examples of Spanish renaissance architecture. Don’t dismiss the gardens – Generalife. In particular, the Water Stairway warrants attention.
The Alhambra! From Albaicín
Of note, they do not enforce a strict dress code here but visitors are expected to dress with respect toward the site’s rich cultural and historical essence. Modesty and comfort are key, given the Alhambra’s religious and cultural sensitivities.
It’s an amazing place to visit but beware the queues. Plan ahead and book on-line, this is not a place to just rock up to. Alhambra de Granada (tickets-alhambra-palace.com)
Is there anything else? Hell yes! Don’t miss out on the lesser known sites.
Catedral de Granada
Or the Cathedral of the Incarnation (Catedral de Granada, Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación de Granada).
Definitely not lesser known and of great significance. It is a Roman Catholic Church and like many other cathedrals in Andalucia, it was built on top of the city’s main mosque after the reconquest of Granada. You can combine this visit and see the Royal Chapel of Granada (Capilla Real de Granada). Constructed between 1505 and 1517, it is the burial place of the Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs. Apart from these historical links, this building also contains a gallery of artworks and other items associated with Queen Isabella. Again, if this is for you, I’d pre-book. Catedral de Granada – Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación de Granada
La Casa de Zafra
This 14th-century Nasrid house is located in the very heart of Albaicín a little piece of the Muslim quarters history. The house belonged to a family of Andalusian aristocrats and its Arab essence has been preserved, especially in the pool in the courtyard.
Like most Arab houses, the exterior of the House of Zafra is sober. It’s intention? To hide the luxury and comforts of the time, from foreign eyes. Inside it has several rooms spread over two floors and again you get beautiful views of the Alhambra. Casa de Zafra | Turismo | Ayuntamiento de Granada
Some simple stuff to enjoy
Visit a tea house on the walk through the cobbled streets heading to Mirador de San Nicolás. High up in Albaicín. What is it? It’s a viewpoint. A square in front of San Nicolás church which was built on top of a mosque in 1525. It’s known for the stunning views of the Alhambra and sitting in the background the Sierra Nevada mountains. A visit inside the church offers you the chance of slightly better views, if you are up for climbing the bell tower.
Its also home to La Mezquita Mayor de Granada. Página oficial de la Mezquita Mayor de Granada (mezquitadegranada.com)
The place get’s busy. Local crafts are on sale. Musicians, dancers and painters all bring something to liven up the atmosphere. The most popular time to visit is sunset. It’s all about the light and the glow cast upon those magnificent palaces but if you’re a morning person, beat the rush. The sunrises are fantastic and the quiet!
Feeding Time
There are some great cafeterias, bars and restaurant’s all around this city and I´ll highlight them when I stayed in that neighbourhood. All of those that get a mention, I return to time and time again. If I don’t have a good experience, I won’t write them up and definitely won’t be back!
Let’s start with Café Fútbol. It’s been around for more than 100 years! Dine inside or outside, in the plaza across the street. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve been here and I’ve never been disappointed. Great for breakfast, tapas or ice cream!
La Lirio, below. An early morning shot, doors closed and no-one around. Lunchtime there’s a different view. This place is right on the Darro, opposite side of the river to Carrera del Darro. The menu’s not extensive but they offer up great authentic dishes, cold beer and ask reasonable prices. Outside dining, friendly, helpful staff and usually have a good soundtrack on!
Room with a view
Albaicín is a great neigbourhood to stay in. Who wouldn’t want to stay in a traditional casa? But bear in mind a lot of properties are only accessible on foot. You might want to travel light.
September 2023, edging out of summer. I stayed at Casa Guidai and it was an authentic Spanish experience, that I would be happy to repeat. It was peaceful with beautiful views and there was nothing not to like, once you’ve found it. It’s not clearly marked and the neighbours very nearly got the pleasure of my company!
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Feedback & Sharing
Here’s hoping you will be tempted to travel to Granada. As ever, if you find your way to any of the places featured, I hope you enjoy your visit. Please let them know who pointed you in their direction. Muchas gracias.