León a city and municipality in Spain. It’s the capital of the province and part of the autonomous community of Castile and León. It’s landlocked, in the northwest of the country. Steeped in history, it was one of the first cities to stage an uprising in the Spanish War of Independence. Furthermore, it hosts some fabulous architecture, stunning historical buildings.
There was no driver for me to come here, a part from curiosity. No specific event identified. There was a small challenge, in addition. How would I get here?
The joy of the journey
Firstly, train to Malaga. Secondly, a train to Madrid. Ok so far. But now I need to cross the city, move from Atocha to Chamartín. Simple, there’s a metro link. I don’t know what it is about undergrounds ( and this one is deep underground) but I lose all sense of direction! But hey ho, I did it with a little help!
Estación de Madrid – Chamartín – Clara Campoamor was/is undergoing renovation, that didn’t help. Especially, when you don’t know the difference in journey type. Are you transferring to a Media Distancia or Alta Velocidad route? It’s good to know! In addition, León has two stations just be aware when planning your visit. Another tip, the metro card you buy will be valid for 10 years, recharge for your future trips! Despite a few confusing moments I arrived safely.
Getting your bearings
The city of León is some size. It can be divided into more than 36 districts (barrios): Top 3 from this trip. I’ll be back.
- Centro or downtown
- Casco Antiguo or Casco Histórico , the historical part of the city
- Barrio Húmedo, is a nickname given to an old part of the city that is the place for food and drink. It’s a neighbourhood with it’s own web page Barrio Húmedo – Página Oficial de Turismo de León concentrated within the Roman city walls. There are approximately between 100 and 150 bars and clubs within Barrio Húmedo, plenty of choice.
Somewhere to stay
With so much choice, how do you choose where to stay? For me, I like the main sights to be within walking distance along with some good places to eat near by. Apatamentos MK77, Identia Sport was spot on. Super modern, a swift 15 minute walk from the station. The food and wine on this trip was particularly memorable, in respect of quality and value for money. Firstly, breakfast. Without a doubt, the most important meal of the day and what León had to offer did not disappoint! Try Sonríe – Coffee&Brunch
Panadería Flecha an artisan bakery that’s been in the city since 1957 is undoubtably worth a visit. Croissant choco and cafe, divine.
El Rincon de Aysha 2. A lively neighbourhood bar, less than a 5 minute walk from my apartment was a great find for the evenings. Tapas, wine, sports along with a warm friendly atmosphere. 2 doors up there’s another super option, didn’t catch the name but the wine was to be noted, picture of the bottle taken!
Churches obviously too many to mention
Two, undoubtably too significant to miss
León Catedral, one of the most relevant examples of the Gothic style in Spain, almost all of it built from 1205 to 1301. Web Oficial de la Catedral de León – Noticias It contains one of the most extensive and best preserved collections of medieval stained glass in Europe. It’s windows cover a vast surface area and the majority are original.
Convent of San Marcos a historical landmark (currently a luxurious Parador) built from the 16th century AD to the 18th. It’s most striking feature is it’s highly ornamental plateresque façade.
More than a building
Casa Botines, a neogothic styled building designed by Antoni Gaudí. 🥇 Museo Gaudí – Museo Casa Botines Gaudí en León Built in 1891-1892 (one of the three Gaudí buildings outside Catalonia). I found the booking system on the website a little confusing so just rocked up and bought a ticket at the door. Its splendid. As well as, being able to discover the buildings interesting history and admire the decor of the time, Casa Botines hosts exhibitions, permanent & temporary. Oh and not to be missed the views across the city and plaza. It’s not the main square that’s Plaza Mayor a site in itself and currently undergoing restoration.
Arte – an unexpected find
Who was José Vela Zanetti Sobre el artista – Fundación Vela Zanetti A Spanish painter and muralist who worked in Spain, the Dominican Republic and the United States. A brief introduction – Vela Zanetti was born in Milagros (Province of Burgos) May 27, 1913. He grew up in León but later moved to Madrid, where he studied under José Ramón Zaragoza. In 1931, his first solo exhibition was held in León. He was awarded a scholarship to study in Italy in 1933.
In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, Vela Zanetti’s father was executed for his socialist beliefs. Subsequently, at the end of the war, in 1939, Vela Zanetti went into exile in the Dominican Republic.
What the man himself had to say about this space and foundation:
“No quiero que esta Fundación sea un mero lugar al que ir a ver mis cuadros, sino una atmósfera en la que todo joven que se adentre en ella sienta que también él puede cumplir sus sueños, con vocación y fuerza de voluntad”
“I don’t want this Foundation to be a mere place to go to see my paintings, but an atmosphere in which every young person who enters it feels that he too can fulfill his dreams, with vocation and willpower”
A small sample of some of the works on display, contrasting paint and pencil.
Astorga! A Bonus Trip
I made this trip in Autumn. The colours are amazing but this is the north. Temperatures were low and the chance of rain was high. I was going to see some sometime, unless I could dodge it! How? Slip in a a day trip to Astorga.
A little bit of geography to introduce the location.
Astorga lies in the area of the Maragatos, a small ethnic and cultural community with distinctive customs and architecture. Furthermore, the town lies at the junction of two routes of the Camino de Santiago. The French Route, the most popular and the Silver Route from Mérida in southern Spain, an alternative route of the Way of St. James. Camino de Santiago | All the Routes, Stages, Maps and Towns
Besides, it was easy and cheap to get there, another train. Downside, an early start. I arrived in darkness a little before 8am. A 10 to 15 minute walk from the station and I found coffee and cake (it came free with the coffee!).
The Highlights
Episcopal Palace of Astorga more architecture by Antoni Gaudí. Built in the late 1800’s, after the previous palace burned down. It’s modernist building in the neo-Gothic style. A fairytale castle and palace, on the outside very grey. Gaudí chose granite from El Bierzo, in contrast to the Roman walls and red sandstone of the town’s Catedral . While on the inside the windows are an array of colour, remarkable. Palacio Episcopal de Astorga
Secondly, Catedral de Astorga – Culto / Visita Turística / Historia Just dropping this in, my photos don’t do it justice.
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