Snapshots

Fuengirola to Cáceres: in 3 easy steps

Train from Fuengirola to Málaga, María Zambrano. Followed by bus from Málaga to Seville, Plaza de Armas. Last change, bus from Seville to Cáceres. Good old Alsa! A comfortable trip, across a great landscape. On the last leg, you have very brief stops in Zafra & Mérida.

A word or two about bus stations. Travel by bus is popular in Spain. Not wanting to state the obvious, because of this, they are busy places. Not always the busiest but scoring big on confusion is Plaza de Armas.

You know where you are going right? So you just need to find the right stand. It’s fine, look on the departures board. Whoa, just hold your horses there! Not all journeys are listed! If yours doesn’t appear, you might need to find the line for your destination.

How do you do that? Use the electronic information point to search/check. Ok, you’ve done that, got it. Moving on, head to the information kiosk. There’s an A4 sheet stuck on the glass with a typed list which provides a range of stands (andens) for the line eg 30-33. Off you go, hang around in that vicinity. Likewise, check your ticket for the coach number, for when the buses start rolling in. It’s a joy!

Not all bad though, if you have a lay over here and want something to eat go to the cafeteria. They serve traditional Spanish fayre and you won’t get ripped off. The tapa are a good size, equivalent to a small plate. A small draught beer (caña) goes down a treat too!

You’ve arrived

Cáceres a city and municipality located in the centre of the autonomous community  of Extremadura. 

Cáceres lies at the feet of the Sierra de la Mosca, a modest hill range. It is part of the Vía de la Plata (“Silver Route”) path of the Camino de Santiago that crosses the west of the Iberian Peninsula in a north–south direction.

It is the capital and most populated municipality of the province of Cáceres. However, the actual municipal population fluctuates by more than 30,000 people. This is primarily related to it being home to educational centers such as the Cáceres Campus of the University of Extremadura (Headquarters) and the CEFOT-1 of the Army.  Because of this, the city usually empties in summer when many residents return to their home towns. 

Two astronomical observatories are also situated in Cáceres along with the Superior Court of Justice Extremadura.

Why Cáceres?

I haven’t explored this part of Spain before.

Why now? A concert.

Miguel Campello was the voice and soul of the group Elbicho. Composer and singer. But that was more than ten years ago. Since then, he has had time to release seven solo albums. Miguel Campello talks about the air, earth, moon and sun in songs. He transfers emotions and feelings of the most everyday things to the stage. Singer and composer of the band elbicho. Now on his own, his work enhances creativity and passion in composition and interpretation.

What else does Cáceres have to offer?

It’s another Spanish city with a history of 3 cultures. Christians, Muslims and Jewish have all played a part in it’s creation. Some highlights for me below.

CASA MUSEO ÁRABE YUSUF AL BURCH is a delightful place. It’s not grand or spectacular. It’s peaceful, pretty and offers you a glimpse of how life use to be. CASA MUSEO ÁRABE YUSUF AL BURCH | Portal Oficial de Turismo de Cáceres

Sala de Arte El Brocense Área de Cultura – Diputación de Cáceres Home to an unexpected exhibition and a highlight of the weekend for me. EL POSE del TIEMPO – Lorenzo L. Lumeras “En la arquitectura de la Europa de los siglos XIX y XX. Hoy es siempre todavia. Un pasado aumulado en espacios que son remansos suspendidos en un presetne continuo.  Una vision paliativa de enseres que halan donde habita la ausencia.”

Which translates to “In the architecture of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Europe. Today it is always still. A past augmented in spaces that are backwaters suspended in a continuous presence.  A palliative vision of belongings that pull where absence dwells”.

I love both architecture and photography. This guy’s work, shows beauty in ruin. To have that eye and talent.

A theatre, Consorcio Gran Teatro de Cáceres.

I hadn’t planned to visit. Fortunately, solo travel means more chance of picking up the odd spare seat. The production on offer “Goteras”. It’s a play. A synopsis: Toni is a young playwright with a promising future.  One night, some leaks appear in his roof.  What should be a simple domestic accident becomes the most important moment of his life, when he discovers that his neighbour is him, some thirty years later.

Time to eat

How about a good breakfast to start your day? Here’s 3 recommendations.

Monumental – Plaza Mayor. A good place for breakfast. Local workers, coming and going, indicates good food and coffee at a good price and that’s what I got. What I wanted wasn’t available but that said, they were quick to offer an acceptable alternative that ticked all the boxes!

Fulgentradicion – This cafeteria isn’t in the casco antigua, it’s in what I would call the ‘new’ town. This probably isn’t specific solely to Spain but a dish listed on a menu in the same way doesn’t necessarily get presented in the same way. Regions and cafeterias put their own spin on things. That happened here but I’m good with it, makes things more interesting!

Alfonso IX – A hotel, in the back streets of the casco antigua. An early breakfast isn’t always easy to find especially, on a Sunday. However, the Alfonso IX’s cafeteria opens it’s doors around 8am and they’re open to non-residents.

Anytime

Churros Factory – I found Cáceres to have a slightly different timetable for when to eat what. How do I describe this? I sometimes fancy a coffee and something sweet mid afternoon instead of lunch. No can do. Late afternoon, early evening is the time for that in Cáceres. 7pm on a Saturday night and this place was heaving. Lovely, friendly staff, delicious chocolate caliente and fresh churros. An absolute delight.

Anyone for a spot of lunch or dinner?

Mayor 33 – When I arrived after dropping my bag, I was looking for tapas. I stopped here. Tapas were available but the camarero pointed out that they had a menú del día in the evening. What can I say? I was tempted, 3 courses and a glass of wine or beer for the princely sum of 16.90 euros! Amazing value. 6 or 8 starters and mains to choose from 3 desserts or a coffee. And obviously, don’t forget the wine. It was all good, food and service.

El Requete – I can not complain about the quality of the food here. However, note to self and others. Pay attention when being served. Do not get distracted, editing photo’s for example. I didn’t want bread with my main. I was caught foul of the charge and that roll wasn’t cheap. To add insult to injury, I was also charged separately for the little individual tub of butter! This is the first time I’ve seen this. Again, untouched and I could have bought 250g for the same price in Mercadona! Slight exaggeration but hey poetic license and all that.

Escencia Extremeña – Saving the best until last. Definitely my best find. It’s not big, I was lucky to get a table indoors around 2.30/3.00pm for lunch. Although, the menu offered plenty of choice it was time to step off the sidewalk and ask what they had ‘fuera la carta’? (outside of the menu). What’s more, I got my favourite, calamari. Cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. The wine I asked for, they were out of. Nonetheless the alternative they suggested was extremely good. On price, most definitely, no complaints from me.

Base Camp

If you’ve been on here before, you may have picked up that I like slightly quirky and a bit of individuality. I live in an apartment. I love it!!!. Location, location, location. My view, the light, the aspect. Oh and importantly, my neighbours. But it’s a square divided into 5 spaces. Easy to clean, big plus and great for my lifestyle. Does it have charm? No. Hence, my choosing a different style of environment to stay in when I travel, if that’s an option.

This place was delightful. It’s called Apartmento turistico Jimena y Mateo RR but its more a ‘casa‘ and has obviously had a previous life. However, the conversion works. Everything you need is provided and it was spotless!

More over, the hosts were friendly and attentive without being over bearing. If I return to Caceres I’d love to stay here again, perfectly situated on the edge of the casco antigua, close to bars and restaurants.

To close

Just because, these two young musicians were amazing! Tunes from Bridgerton as I climbed the steps!

I truly hope this post inspires you to embark on a solo adventure or explore with friends. You’ll find a friendly welcome waiting for you in Cáceres!

Toledo is a city and municipality and capital of the province of Toledo. It is the de jure seat of the government and parliament of the autonomous community  of Castilla La Mancha.

Primarily located on the right (north) bank of the Tagus Rio Tajo  in central Iberia. It’s nestled in a bend of the river and known as “A City of Three Cultures”, having been influenced by Christians, Muslims and Jews. It has a gothic cathedral and a long history in the production of bladed weapons, now common souvenirs of the city. Furthermore, Toledo was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1986.

Getting there -The Railway

Importantly, Toledo was one of the first Spanish cities to have a rail service. The Madrid – Aranjuez line, was inaugurated by Isabella II on June 12, 1858. The current Railway Station which opened on April 24, 1919 is especially charming.

Toledo lies south west of Madrid and travel time from Puerta de Atocha (Estación de Madrid) is just under 30 minutes. If you don’t want to stay here, this makes it great for a ‘Day Trip’ if you’re in the capital.

The sights & attractions

Centro de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo de Castilla- La Mancha. Fascinating and that’s just the building. I was in awe. The collection and installation’s are amazing. In fact, it is a maze. Never close your mind. Colección Roberto Polo – CENTRO DE ARTE MODERNO Y CONTEMPORÁNEO DE CASTILLA-LA MANCHA Not to be missed!

Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes is an Isabelline style Franciscan monastery, it’s gothic and beautiful. It has an air of serenity and peace. Founded by King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile to mark both the birth of their son, Prince John, and their victory at the  Battle of Toro (1476) over the army of Alfonso V of Portugal, it’s well worth a visit. Visita Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes | TCLM

El Museo del Greco El Museo del Greco – MUSEO DEL GRECO | Ministerio de Cultura The museum is one of the national museums of Spain and houses several important paintings. El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos, 1541–1614) spent much of his life in Toledo although born in Fodele, Crete. It’s a house museum, designed to recreate the artist’s home, due to the original being lost centuries ago. As a result, it’s also a single artist museum, consisting of 2 buildings, along with a garden. You’ll find it in the Jewish Quarter of the city.

Las escaleras mecánicas de Toledo – Outdoor escalators located on the Paseo de Recaredo, which runs from the Puerta de Bisagra to the Puerta del Cambrón. An opening in the medieval wall allows access to several flights of escalators that show magnificent views of Toledo. You just have to give them a go and they lead to the Tourist Office.

A different city another concert !

This time the venue was the Auditorio Palacio de Congresos El Greco. A stop on the Miami 1990 Tour of Café Quijano. A great evenings entertainment. These guys just love to get their audience involved and have a strong following of all ages. Check them out on Spotify. The backdrop art work deserves a mention in addition to the music – a great set!

pctoledo – Palacio de Congresos de Toledo

Food & Drink

La Boveda (for a traditional breakfast) – Small and basic in design with friendly staff, serving good coffee! The churros were decent too. It was busy, usually a good sign, as well as lots of locals coming and going.

La Sagra – I popped in here for breakfast before I headed home. It did what it said on the tin.

La Barra de Tornerias – the Turning Bar. Fine tapas, large portions, or plates. Decent wine and although they weren’t advertised they do serve desserts, ask to see what’s available on the day.

Gallego Tapas Marisqueria – in the bar, your wine comes with a tapa and there’s a wider selection for you to choose from as a small plate or they are happy for you to take a seat in the restaurant.

Antojos en la muralla my best find! Very close to the Hospedería (below). Looks insignificant from the sidewalk, venture in and you might be surprised.

It was spotless (including the bathroom). The staff are friendly and helpful. On to the food, delicious doesn’t cover it and it’s all homemade. I was lucky enough to have a chat with the owner and ‘cocinera‘. She’s proud of her place and so she should be!

A place to stay

Alda Hospedería De Los Reyes is located close to Toledo’s 10th-century Puerta Bisagra Gate. It’s outside the city walls, relatively close to the train station, an easy 10-15 minute walk, mostly flat. There’s a slight incline at the end but nothing compared to the climb into the city. Steep inclines and medieval steps are a plenty. Do you want to tackle those with luggage? I think not even if it’s only a mochilla!

Alda are a hotel group, I’ve stayed in one before – Pamplona. Things changed! Not the standard of accommodation, that just fine. However, reception cover is a bit sparse. Be prepared for a video call to check-in, ask a question, or get help if you need it. That said, once checked-in I didn’t have any problems. In other words I would book with them again, at the right price of course.

In a nutshell

Toledo’s a great compact city, making it an ideal destination for a weekend break! To finish, an image for no reason other than decoration – taken on a Sunday morning stroll in Toledo!

Hasta pronto desde un otro sitio ¿Donde?

Feedback welcome as ever, drop a comment or send an email, the choice is yours! Happy travelling !

Some background

I headed here in November last year (2024). It had been on my ‘go to’ list for a while and a concert moved it up. The trip was booked well in advance and once the important stuff like ticket and a place to lay my head were sorted, I forgot about it. Very little research was done. What struck me first was this city’s size!

A northern city, the capital of the autonomous community of Aragon. Also known as Saragossa in English, it lies by the Ebro river and its tributaries, the Huerva and the Gállego. Debatable as to whether it’s the fourth or fifth largest city in Spain.

Easy to get to by train from Malaga, moreover it’s now a direct route! No changes are definitely a plus.

City street views and Plaza de Santa Engracia at night.

The sights – things to see & do

Zaragoza most famous for, the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza, constantly named as one of Spain’s Top 10 Cathedrals, in addition to being one of the 12 Treasures of Spain. El Pilar – Catedrales de Zaragoza

The Natural Science Museum -University of Zaragoza Home – Museo de Ciencias Naturales de la Universidad de Zaragoza. It’s not big but sometimes that’s a good thing. Visits are free, displays interesting and informative. It’s housed in a great building and hosts temporary exhibitions. On my visit, they featured a history of Santiago Ramón y Cajal (1906) winner of the Premio Nobel de Medicina. Again, not huge, one room but really well put together.

The names in the link. It’s a Park but not to be missed! It’s huge, beautiful and I couldn’t suggest a more stunning place to take a walk! Parque Grande, José Antonio Labordeta. Equipamientos. Ayuntamiento de Zaragoza

Want to shop till you drop? Zaragoza can help with that. All the usual high street names but lots of quirky independents there too and some street markets to check out for artisan products, curiosities and collectors items.

This deserved a mention earlier!

CaixaForum is a series of museums, galleries and exhibition centres sponsored by Catalan bank and not-for-profit La Caixa, situated in different cities across Spain. But it goes mobile! They bring educational, cultural and art displays out into the community. Some are unique audio and visual learning experiences that need to be booked, all free, others are out in the street to view at your leisure.

Check out the photos from  León and you’ll see a display on the street, to the side of the Cathedral. Look out for them when travelling. At the time of my visit to Zaragoza there were two photographic exhibitions available. I’ve also accessed events at home in Fuengirola and also Málaga, Seville, Córdoba and the aforementioned  León. All have definitely been worth a visit!

Food & Drink

Plenty of choice to suit all tastes & budgets. Zaragoza has a great thing going on in El Tubo de Zaragoza – El corazón donde late la ciudad. It’s the neighborhood for food, drink and nightlife. The perfect place to go for tapa or to party!

I rarely do anything other than Spanish, why would you in a city/region known for it’s gastronomic delights? Not possible to give them all a mention so I’ll start with one that stood out for me Taberna El Triana, Calle Estebanes 7. It’s been around a while, circa 1950 and has a dining room and a Taberna, bar-for food. Great selection of traditional tapa and wine to enjoy in a busy (don’t be fooled by the photo, the empty seats filled within minutes) but relaxed atmosphere. Staff were friendly and welcoming, nothing a bother.

For a more modern, cafe type place, with a good selection of tapa and drinks try Cafetería Santiago . It’s easy to find, right opposite the Basílica.

Cafetería for breakfast (or Tapa I tried both): La Gata con Manchas it has a nice vibe.

The Concert

Concierto de Aranjuez – Homenaje a Paco de Lucía at the Auditorio de Zaragoza. Auditorio de Zaragoza More flamenco but every live performance is unlike any other. This performance was delivered in 3 parts.

Part 1 Orquesta Clásica Santa Cecilia (Santa Cecilia Classical Orchestra). Founded in 2001, an orchestra based in Madrid, belonging to the Excelentia Foundation. Featuring Alejandro Hurtado – guitarra.

Conducted by José Luis López-Antón who is rightly considered one of the most brilliant and charismatic promises of the new generation of conductors in Spain. This was something of a pleasant surprise for me as I had recently enjoyed a performance when he directed the Málaga Symphony Orchestra Inicio – Sinfónica de Málaga who delivered Music from the Movies at the Palacio de la Paz, Fuengirola, my home town. Sorry I digress.

Part 2. The orchestra leave to allow Alejandro Hurtado deliver yet another exceptional performance. Alejandro Hurtado with percussion dispensed by David Domínguez, amazing. David Domínguez This is an exceptional pairing.

Part 3. Last but not least Andrés Barrios – piano. Unknown to me, till now. Andrés is an avant-garde pianist who fuses contemporary music with the deep roots of flamenco. A young pianist from Utrera who explores different flamenco styles such as soleá, seguiriya and bulerías. He combines them with influences from various world music. The result, a modern and current vision of flamenco, that intertwines tradition with innovation, uniting past and present in a unique way. ANDRÉS BARRIOS – Pianista y compositor

A Place to Stay

I chose an apartment (Apartmenticos Plaza Sas I) on the edge of El Tubo. The interior was modern, might be a little too modern for some tastes, if your sharing. But it was very clean and everything you need for a short stay was provided.

But here’s the rub, for me anyway:

I’m respectful I leave things as I find them although, I understand that all folks aren’t like that. I was asked for a breakages deposit. I don’t have a problem with this. However, I would like to have been told about this at the point of booking, not messaged and asked for 100 euros the night before my trip! *See note *

Another irritation, I’ve never been asked to take my own rubbish out before but hey there’s a first time for everything and this was it! The location was great but bear in mind Saturday night doesn’t end until Sunday morning and I’m talking 6am! So if you’re a light sleeper and take to you’re bed any earlier, somewhere a little quieter or some earplugs might be a good choice. I’ve not said anything here that I haven’t included in my review for the booking platform. In my humble opinion, they are valid points to note.

Feedback & Sharing

It goes without saying, I hope this inspires and tempts you to explore this city. It has a lot to offer! Happy to receive comments or questions.

Get that bag packed, buy the tickets, have an adventure!

** I mention the breakage deposit and the timing of the request for it because like most, I do not have an unlimited budget. For me, experiences are more important than possessions. Importantly, I acknowledge 100 euros could make all the difference, ¿ do your get to go or not?

If anything you read here was helpful please share. Happy travelling, hasta luego!

León a city and municipality in Spain. It’s the capital of the province and part of the autonomous community of Castile and León.  It’s landlocked, in the northwest of the country. Steeped in history, it was one of the first cities to stage an uprising in the Spanish War of Independence. Furthermore, it hosts some fabulous architecture, stunning historical buildings.

There was no driver for me to come here, a part from curiosity. No specific event identified. There was a small challenge, in addition. How would I get here?

The joy of the journey

Firstly, train to Malaga. Secondly, a train to Madrid. Ok so far. But now I need to cross the city, move from Atocha to Chamartín. Simple, there’s a metro link. I don’t know what it is about undergrounds ( and this one is deep underground) but I lose all sense of direction! But hey ho, I did it with a little help!

Estación de Madrid – Chamartín – Clara Campoamor was/is undergoing renovation, that didn’t help. Especially, when you don’t know the difference in journey type. Are you transferring to a Media Distancia or Alta Velocidad route? It’s good to know! In addition, León has two stations just be aware when planning your visit. Another tip, the metro card you buy will be valid for 10 years, recharge for your future trips! Despite a few confusing moments I arrived safely.

Getting your bearings

The city of León is some size. It can be divided into more than 36 districts (barrios): Top 3 from this trip. I’ll be back.

• Centro or downtown
• Casco Antiguo or Casco Histórico , the historical part of the city
• Barrio Húmedo, is a nickname given to an old part of the city that is the place for food and drink. It’s a neighbourhood with it’s own web page Barrio Húmedo – Página Oficial de Turismo de León concentrated within the Roman city walls. There are approximately between 100 and 150 bars and clubs within Barrio Húmedo, plenty of choice.
• 

Somewhere to stay

With so much choice, how do you choose where to stay? For me, I like the main sights to be within walking distance along with some good places to eat near by. Apatamentos MK77, Identia Sport was spot on. Super modern, a swift 15 minute walk from the station. The food and wine on this trip was particularly memorable, in respect of quality and value for money. Firstly, breakfast. Without a doubt, the most important meal of the day and what León had to offer did not disappoint! Try Sonríe – Coffee&Brunch

Panadería Flecha an artisan bakery that’s been in the city since 1957 is undoubtably worth a visit. Croissant choco and cafe, divine.

El Rincon de Aysha 2. A lively neighbourhood bar, less than a 5 minute walk from my apartment was a great find for the evenings. Tapas, wine, sports along with a warm friendly atmosphere. 2 doors up there’s another super option, didn’t catch the name but the wine was to be noted, picture of the bottle taken!

Churches obviously too many to mention

Two, undoubtably too significant to miss

León Catedral, one of the most relevant examples of the Gothic style in Spain, almost all of it built from 1205 to 1301. Web Oficial de la Catedral de León – Noticias It contains one of the most extensive and best preserved collections of medieval stained glass in Europe. It’s windows cover a vast surface area and the majority are original.

Convent of San Marcos a historical landmark (currently a luxurious Parador) built from the 16th century AD to the 18th. It’s most striking feature is it’s highly ornamental plateresque façade.

More than a building

Casa Botines, a neogothic styled building designed by Antoni Gaudí. 🥇 Museo Gaudí – Museo Casa Botines Gaudí en León Built in 1891-1892 (one of the three Gaudí buildings outside Catalonia). I found the booking system on the website a little confusing so just rocked up and bought a ticket at the door. Its splendid. As well as, being able to discover the buildings interesting history and admire the decor of the time, Casa Botines hosts exhibitions, permanent & temporary. Oh and not to be missed the views across the city and plaza. It’s not the main square that’s Plaza Mayor a site in itself and currently undergoing restoration.

Arte – an unexpected find

Who was José Vela Zanetti Sobre el artista – Fundación Vela Zanetti A Spanish painter and muralist who worked in Spain, the Dominican Republic and the United States. A brief introduction – Vela Zanetti was born in Milagros (Province of Burgos) May 27, 1913. He grew up in León but later moved to Madrid, where he studied under José Ramón Zaragoza. In 1931, his first solo exhibition was held in León. He was awarded a scholarship to study in Italy in 1933.

In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, Vela Zanetti’s father was executed for his socialist beliefs. Subsequently, at the end of the war, in 1939, Vela Zanetti went into exile in the Dominican Republic.

What the man himself had to say about this space and foundation:

“No quiero que esta Fundación sea un mero lugar al que ir a ver mis cuadros, sino una atmósfera en la que todo joven que se adentre en ella sienta que también él puede cumplir sus sueños, con vocación y fuerza de voluntad”

“I don’t want this Foundation to be a mere place to go to see my paintings, but an atmosphere in which every young person who enters it feels that he too can fulfill his dreams, with vocation and willpower”

A small sample of some of the works on display, contrasting paint and pencil.

Astorga! A Bonus Trip

I made this trip in Autumn. The colours are amazing but this is the north. Temperatures were low and the chance of rain was high. I was going to see some sometime, unless I could dodge it! How? Slip in a a day trip to Astorga.

A little bit of geography to introduce the location.

Astorga lies in the area of the Maragatos, a small ethnic and cultural community with distinctive customs and architecture. Furthermore, the town lies at the junction of two routes of the Camino de Santiago. The French Route, the most popular and the Silver Route from Mérida in southern Spain, an alternative route of the Way of St. James. Camino de Santiago | All the Routes, Stages, Maps and Towns

Besides, it was easy and cheap to get there, another train. Downside, an early start. I arrived in darkness a little before 8am. A 10 to 15 minute walk from the station and I found coffee and cake (it came free with the coffee!).

The Highlights

Episcopal Palace of Astorga more architecture by Antoni Gaudí. Built in the late 1800’s, after the previous palace burned down. It’s modernist building in the neo-Gothic style. A fairytale castle and palace, on the outside very grey. Gaudí chose granite from El Bierzo, in contrast to the Roman walls and red sandstone of the town’s Catedral . While on the inside the windows are an array of colour, remarkable. Palacio Episcopal de Astorga

Secondly, Catedral de Astorga – Culto / Visita Turística / Historia Just dropping this in, my photos don’t do it justice.

Feedback & Sharing

Wherever you are in the world, I hope this site encourages you to explore, search for the wonderful, unusual or ordinary beyond your local community. We are not here for long. Happy travels, stay safe! Please share and feedback. Hasta pronto!

But hey no Flamenco again!

And this is a 2 minute read, focusing on the event but highlighting a great place to stay.

The Venue: El Palacio de Exposiciones y Congresos de Granada. A conference and exhibition centre. It’s in the city centre, on paseo del Violón and sits on the left had side of the river Genil. A great venue, for a much bigger gig than the last one I was in Granada for.

The view from El Palacio

Café Quijano on their Manhattan Tour 2024. Café Quijano – Cafe Quijano

A Spanish Latino rock group. Three brothers Manuel, Óscar y Raúl Quijano originating from the Spanish city of León (I’m bound to get there sometime).

A great night. These guys are entertainers.

Just when I thought it was all over, the encore and my favourite track, “Perdonarme”. Check them out on all the usual platforms.

Base Camp

Set in an Andalusian manor house from the year 1700. I arrived to find a note on the door. “Back in 5 minutes, you are welcome to wait in the cafe across the street”. Off across the street, then. I learn it’s a husband and wife duo, he’s in the cafe and explains she’s just popped out to collect the children from school, no problem. I take a drink and a seat and in less than 5 minutes the lady and 2 lovely little girls arrive to show me to my room. It’s quirky, individual decor, just what I like!

A bite to eat

I’m a creature of habit and a ‘frequent flyer’ to Granada. When I like a place, I go back! So not much to add here with the exception of breakfast at the cafe run by the owners of the Pension. Good traditional Spanish fare, big portions to set you up for the day and great value for money. The service is none too shabby either, it was busy and I expected a wait, especially for my second coffee. But no they had it covered.

Footnote for next post

The Spanish city of León gets a mention and I got there. It’s coming soon.

Jaén city, the capital and administrative and industrial centre for the province of Jaén. In the interior, easy to get to by bus from Malaga, via Granada.

Businesses in and around the city include chemical works, tanneries, distilleries, cookie factories, textile factories, as well as agricultural and olive oil processing machinery industry.

Not sounding too interesting or easy on the eye? Think again, it has other things going on, that make it worth a visit. And that’s why cultural tourism is on the rise!

The layout of Jaén is determined by its position on the foothills of the Cerro de Santa Catalina. Steep, narrow streets, in the historic core surround the star of the show. Catedral de Jaén – Santa Iglesia Catedral de la Asunción de la Virgen It’s splendid, inside and out. Impeccably maintained it offers amazing views of not just the town but the surrounding countryside and vast skies.

The timing of my visit

The second weekend in October. Why now? A concert but I got lucky . I got more than I bargained for. Here’s why

Feria de San Lucas 2024 Jaén 【 11 al 20 Octubre 】

Back to the concert. The last date on the Andalucían leg of La Plazuela’s 2024 tour and the end of summer.

Who are La Plazuela? La Plazuela is a musical duo from Granada. The duo, Manuel Hidalgo Sierra, El Indio, and Luis Abril Martín, El Nitro. They formed in 2019, creating music that is a fusion of flamenco, funk, pop, and electronica.

They have not forgotten flamenco’s roots being influenced by artists of the genre’s early period, such as Camarón, Enrique Morente, Pata Negra and Ketama and the music they created.More recently they have been influenced by artists like David de Jacoba and have collaborated with him on the EP, La Caleta, May 2024. And don’t miss their album, Roneo Funk Club released April 23, a great listen.

The venue, Auditorio Municipal De La Alameda situated where else but in the beautiful El parque de la Alameda. Also known as the Alameda de Capuchinos, It’s one of the city’s main parks as well as being the oldest, dating back to 1577.

Jaén & Gastronomy

This city has a whole thing about food going on and so it should. Follow Gastronomía Jaén on Facebook. It’s a page that’s a bit of fun. Spanish humour, mixed with posts to showcase the delicious dishes served up in local restaurants.

Most provinces in Andalucía put their own spin on traditional dishes and Jaén’s no different. As do individual cafeterías. I ordered a tostada tomate, jamon & queso, that’s what I got. But the toast was loaded, it was prepared with the olive oil and tomato but the ham & cheese were served separately and the quality was exceptional. Something so simple but perfect to start your day.

I’m sad to say I can’t remember the name to give mention here but it’s on the street to the right on the cathedral under the arches. And you can expect a warm welcome from the staff and locals a like.

The Highlights

Sometimes the best things are the small things. I went to Jaén for a concert. That was my driver and it was a great night. Would I have gone otherwise? Possibly not. Would I go back? Without a doubt! Already looking to fit a trip in!

Why? The people and the food. Thinking back about my trips around Andalucía and Spain this year and stress none have disappointed, based on the people and the food, this was by far the best.

Everyone I met, young, old and anywhere in between they were polite, respectful & kind. And they wanted to know, was your food good? Could we make it better? Did you enjoy that cold beer? Was the wine to your liking? What brings you to Jaen? Some places to try Bocateria Tiene Miga – outside dining, great food, super pleasant staff. Cerveceria Conde Duque – lunch.

Last but not least Jaen Plameras, Plaza Constitucion,3. Leyenda Alcasar & Rosca de Sobrasada, wow!

What else did I notice? No litter! I actually saw people going out of their way and making an effort to get to the nearest litter bin. I’m a little sad that I mention this, it should be a given that we will all do this but often it’s not the case. People showing some pride in their town and environment. Hats off to them.

Oh & there’s the Street Art

A bed for the night

Getting a room wasn’t easy. I didn’t know the concert coincided with San Lucas and initially gave up hope. But god loves a trier! I let a few weeks pass and resumed my quest, in the hope someone had cancelled. Hey presto, I got a room at the Hotel Europa Hotel Europa en Jaén – Web Oficial. It’s in a central location and does what it says on the tin. It’s clean, modern and practical, in short the equivalent of a Holiday Inn with a pleasant and helpful receptionist.

Feedback & Sharing

Autumn was a great time of year to hit Jaén, I’ll be back probably in the springtime. I hope you’re tempted to go take a a look for yourself and enjoy the hospitality. As ever, happy to receive feedback and please share. Happy travels, even if it’s from you’re arm chair. Hasta luego!

I’ve left Andalucía! Pamplona – part of the Basque Country: Iruña historically but also known as Pampeluna in English. It is the capital city of the chartered community of Navarre.

How did I get here?

Train, train and another train. Oh and then a bus (but that wasn’t in the plan). Easy journey. Fuengirola to Malaga-María Zambrano, Malaga to Madrid-Puerta de Atocha (the biggest and busiest rail hub in Spain), Madrid to Pamplona-Iruña. 3 days before my trip message from Renfe. Work on the tracks means my train journey will end at Tafalla, 30km south of Pamplona. Bus provided so all good. Same on the reverse trip. Departure time brought forward 30 minutes, no biggy.

A little bit of background

The city is famous worldwide for the running of the bulls  during the San Fermín festival. Held annually from 6 July to 14 July. This festival was brought to literary renown in 1926 with the publication of Ernest Hemingways’s novel, The Sun Also Rises . It is also home to Osasuna, the only Navarrese football club to have ever played in the Spanish Top Division.

On this occasion, another festival brought me to this wonderful city. Flamenco on Fire is an annual event in August. This year spanning 23rd August until 1st September. Neighboring towns Viana and Tudela host the performances that kick off this music and dance spectacular which culminates with Grandes Conciertos in Pamplona. Great venues such as Baluarte | Eventos y Congresos en Pamplona and Sala Zentral www.zentralpamplona.com

Israel Fernandez Pura Sangre

But what else does this city have to offer?

Inicio – Museo de Navarra – navarra.es Much more interesting than I thought or expected. Like most museums, it offers permanent collection, that includes a portrait of the Marquis of San Adrián, painted by Francisco de Goya in 1804 but also hosts temporary exhibitions. A real gem, with admission priced at 2 euros.

catedraldepamplona.com

Catedral de Santa María la Real de Pamplona. A beautiful landmark in the city, very tranquil and restful inside. The city walls behind, offer stunning views and can provide a great outline for a walk.

Museo Universidad de Navarra (unav.edu) I wasn’t able to visit on this trip. The site was closed due to preparations for the their latest exhibition, unfortunate timing. I’ve been before and depending on the program and your interests, strongly recommend a visit. It’s on the outskirts of the city but the campus offers green open spaces, making the walk very pleasant. Staff are helpful and welcoming.

Food, Food, Food

Shed loads of choice. I was not disappointed in any of the bars and restaurants I visited, so just go for it! Best advice, hang with the locals and remember kitchens tend to open later in the evenings!

Sites around the city & a place to stay

Hotel Europa Hotel y Restaurante | Hotel Europa Pamplona | Navarra Europa’s central location ensures a steady flow of visitors around the year. The hotel with 25 rooms for travelers, comes with a restaurant that has won a Michelin Star. Serving traditional Spanish delicacies and special Navarra items, the wine cellar is quoted as something not to be missed. My room was a small double, with chic decoration, clean an comfortable but sadly no view.

Images of a day in Pamplona and

Day trip options

Pamplona has more than enough to offer. But, if you want to explore further north you’re a stone’s throw, well, a bus ride away from San Sebastián. Check out the Alsa App for details. Officially known by the bilingual name Donostia / San Sebastián. The city lies on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, 20 km from the France–Spain border.

Feedback & Sharing

As ever, my aim is to encourage folk to travel and give a glimpse of what’s on on offer in this huge and wonderful county. If you like what you read, please share site details with friends & family. If you’re not able to go, I hope what I write is shows the culture a good light. Happy to receive comments. Enjoy and stay safe.

How do you form an opinion? Usually, by reviewing information or personal experience. The second’s probably the best, you can’t beat first hand because everyone’s different. This blog gives my opinion doesn’t mean it’s right and doesn’t mean it’s wrong. It’s a view.

What had I seen of Algericas prior to my trip? The bus station, not pretty. The route around the port area to join the carretera. So really, not much and those views are not inspiring.

What did I know about Algerciras? It’s very industrial and it’s a port. One of the largest in Europe and a gateway to Morroco. Ferries to Tangier are frequent and take a quick route across the Strait of Gibralter. Ceuta, Spain is another popular destination. The Spanish enclave on the North African coast offers an interesting mix of Spanish and Moroccon influences, so I’m told.

I chose to go to Algerciras in July for a festival, “X Encuentra Internacional De Guitarra De Paco de Lucía”. No surprise there!

But really, I was curious. There’s got to be more to this city, right? Yes! It’s not one of the big hitters. It’s not Seville, Granada or Córdoba but if you’re travelling there are worse places to stop off or visit.

The Old Town

Plaza Alta is a square in the old town. It hosts numerous events and festivals throughout the year. Some of the city’s most important buildings, the Iglesia de la Palma Parroquia Nuestra Senora de la Palma and the Capilla de Europa stand on the square. Again, real pretty in traditional Spanish style. The surrounding streets are home to some very nice bars and restaurants and during my stay the food did not disappoint.

Parque María Cristina a notable place to visit. One of the oldest parks in the city, it’s not big but it’s very pretty by day and night. A great place for a concert.

Mercado de abastos or Mercado Ingeniero Torroja – In La plaza Baja de Algeciras also called Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Palma is a thriving Spanish market. Open daily Monday to Saturday offering an abundance of fresh produce amongst other things.

There’s a choice of cafeterias and I reckon the churros must be good judged by the length of the line!

In my humble opinion this city is a place to wander and take in the mix of cultures. It’s a traditional Spanish city with árabe influences. What has it got going for it? The people. The Food. The architecture. Pretty streets and parks. Music and art.

Finding food

When I arrived it was mid afternoon, an hour or so later than I had planned, due to traffic. The streets were deserted with most eateries closed for siesta. I did however, get a cold beer and freshly made to order sandwich at Cafeteria Riobamba. Later, in the evening finding somewhere to dine is not a problem. Around 8pm the streets burst back to life and the restaurants open their doors. La Mesón La Venencia offer excellent tapas and Spanish dishes. Breakfast in Algerciras, offered me an opportunity to try traditional árabe, Rghaifa, wow!

Where I hung my hat

“Hospedaje Lisboa” a short and pleasant 6 minute walk from the bus station. It’s in a good location. “Hospedaje” translates to lodging and that’s what it is. It’s not modern, it’s not chic. It’s family run and does what to says on the tin. I was made to feel welcome and the standout for me, the cleanliness, my room was spotless.

Will I come back?

I think so. Probably for an event. I’d like to visit the CENTRO de
INTERPRETACIÓN. Fundación – Fundación Paco De Lucía (fundacionpacodelucia.com) The Paco de Lucía Interpretation Centre was expected to open its doors during 2022 but that was not achieved. Hopefully the project will be completed in the near future.

Where would I stay? Without a doubt, I’d head back to Hospedaje Lisboa.

Feedback & Sharing

I hope this post encourages you to head to or stop off Algerciras if you’re on the road in Andalucía. As ever, enjoy your travels, and stay safe. Happy to receive comments and if you find this site useful please share. Muchisimo gracias.

Córdoba the city and capital of the province, lies primarily on the right bank of the Guadalquivir somewhere between Seville & Jaén. But lets not get caught up in the geography, not my strong point. A bus ride of 2 hours 30 mins will get you there, from Malaga. If you’re short on time or don’t fancy the bus journey, the train will get you there in just over an hour but will cost more. Unlike, Seville the bus and train stations sit side by side, so as far as access to the city goes, neither has an advantage.

In Andalucia, June is early summer time. But beware, Córdoba has the highest summer temperature in Spain and Europe. Average high temperatures are around 37 °C (99 °F) in July and August, with June not falling far short. A cool 32 °C was the score on the board – 15 June 2024.  Summers are very dry and winters mild with frequent rain. No matter the time of year, the skies are amazing.

Córdoba is the third most populated municipality in Andalusia and it’s a great place to visit. Like most Spanish cities it blends the old with the new. It’s home to stunning examples of Moorish architecture. Such as the renowned Mezquita. named as a Unesco World Heritage site in 1984 and now a cathedral.

Why did I go in June Noche Blanco Del Flamenco and the slightly less threatening temperatures are 2 reasons, as if I needed any, other than a weekend away. I’ve skimmed the surface with what’s on offer hoping it’s enough to get you out there, exploring!

Landmarks

But let’s start with the Mezquita Mosque-Cathedral Monumental Site of Cordoba | Web Oficial – Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba (mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es) and move on to the surrounding monuments. The design is magnificent. You don’t need to know all the in’s and outs to appreciate the beauty and colour. Be amazed by it, just enjoy!

The Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs alcazardelosreyescristianos.cordoba.es Just around the corner and across the road. The fortress, once one of the primary residences of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon hosts far reaching views and gardens that exude calm, just perfect to wander or sit.

Just walk and enjoy more

There’s a lot to admire in the streets of Córdoba. My advice, take the time to amble through the Jewish Quarter and wander across the Roman Bridge. Stop admire the views and be entertained by the various street performers. The riverside park and walk offers up ideal spots for a picnic. Climb the Calahorra Tower.

Wander through the Santa Marina neighbourhood but don’t pass by the Palacio de Viana. Stop, go in! It’s a personal favourite, more tangible history. Tours of the Palacio itself are guided & timed (in Spanish). A written history is offered in other languages but it’s very visual. With a combo ticket you also get to explore the 12 patios and surrounding gardens at your own pace.

Events in the Annual Calendar

Los Patios de Córdoba usually celebrated around the second or third week of May but check the dates before you go . It’s a unique opportunity to visit many of the private patios in the centro historica as they open their doors to the public during the competition.

Plan your route, as opening times are typically between 11 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon and then 6 till 10 in the evening. There are different categories in the competition. The surrounding architecture as well as the floral displays is taken into consideration when the judging takes place.

La Noche Blanco Del Flamenco

Not just an event but an experience! Depending on you’re staying power could be referred to as ‘pulling an all-nighter’. This years programme included 9 performances in different locations around the city. The audience moves through the streets in giant waves. The entertainment started at 22:30 and went on through the night with last performance starting sometime between 05:00 and 06:00am. This night is a chance to experience the variety that flamenco offers.

Royal Stables of Córdoba-Caballerizas Reale

You can visit throughout the year and you won’t be disappointed. Pasión y Duende del Caballo Andaluz is a spectaular show, performances usually take place in the evening Wednesday to Saturday. Córdoba Ecuestre 🐴 | Flamenco, caballos y pasión (cordobaecuestre.com) But the weekend of the Cabalcor in September is something special. A magnificent display of Andalucian horses and horsemanship. Competitions take place over 3 days in various disciplines. On the Saturday night of ‘Cabalcor’ weekend if you’re lucky enough to get a ticket there’s an extraordinary spectacular showcasing the Pasión but usually with a twist. I’ve been lucky enough to see guest troops perform including visitors from Russia! Check out the website for other special events.

Córdoba’s Cuisine

I love a traditional Spanish breakfast and for that I’d head to ‘Cafeteria Don Pepe‘ but after an all-nighter a good brunch might be in order. I recommend heading to ‘The Club’. The only place I know that takes reservations for breakfast and it’s advisable! Hats off to them for accepting reservations for solo diners!

I discovered this place when it was known as The Breakfast Club and occupied much smaller premises in the centro histórico. They’ve moved. You’ll now find them on the Guadalquivir – Av. Fray Albino,3. It’s a pleasant spot, easy to find but on the opposite side of the river. The food is fabulous and they are not shy when it comes to portion size. But don’t forget to make that reservation! You get you table for 90 minutes so it’s a chilled vibe, definitely not fast food.

Tapas, for the best tortilla in Córdoba, ‘Bar Santos’ is the place. Minute capacity, customers dine standing on the street and expect to queue. Nothing better with a caña (small beer).

There’s an array of bars and restaurants, too many to mention! Explore make a choice: try some ‘Rabo de Toro‘ (Spanish bull tail stew).

Hostel’s & Pensions are a plenty

I’ve stayed in Córdoba on 7 occasions usually in September, choosing to stay in different neighborhoods to get a real feel for the place. All good, all varied. I’ve seen comments about availability and high prices, festival time but there are still good options out there.

This trip, I took a room at ‘Hostel Mayflowers‘. What a find! I was more than happy with my room and it justified the price. Very clean & comfortable. Toni my host, was very helpful, nothing was a bother. An unexpected bonus was the communal kitchen off the traditional central patio. This offers guests a great place to relax and enjoy a tea, coffee or water before or after exploring the city. A quick glimpse, the patio in the picture was private, off my room.

Go make your on discoveries and memories. Don’t forget to look up! Have fun and stay safe! If any info here, has been of use and you had a good experience please share. Happy travelling!