Snapshots

León a city and municipality in Spain. It’s the capital of the province and part of the autonomous community of Castile and León.  It’s landlocked, in the northwest of the country. Steeped in history, it was one of the first cities to stage an uprising in the Spanish War of Independence. Furthermore, it hosts some fabulous architecture, stunning historical buildings.

There was no driver for me to come here, a part from curiosity. No specific event identified. There was a small challenge, in addition. How would I get here?

The joy of the journey

Firstly, train to Malaga. Secondly, a train to Madrid. Ok so far. But now I need to cross the city, move from Atocha to Chamartín. Simple, there’s a metro link. I don’t know what it is about undergrounds ( and this one is deep underground) but I lose all sense of direction! But hey ho, I did it with a little help!

Estación de Madrid – Chamartín – Clara Campoamor was/is undergoing renovation, that didn’t help. Especially, when you don’t know the difference in journey type. Are you transferring to a Media Distancia or Alta Velocidad route? It’s good to know! In addition, León has two stations just be aware when planning your visit. Another tip, the metro card you buy will be valid for 10 years, recharge for your future trips! Despite a few confusing moments I arrived safely.

Getting your bearings

The city of León is some size. It can be divided into more than 36 districts (barrios): Top 3 from this trip. I’ll be back.

• Centro or downtown
• Casco Antiguo or Casco Histórico , the historical part of the city
• Barrio Húmedo, is a nickname given to an old part of the city that is the place for food and drink. It’s a neighbourhood with it’s own web page Barrio Húmedo – Página Oficial de Turismo de León concentrated within the Roman city walls. There are approximately between 100 and 150 bars and clubs within Barrio Húmedo, plenty of choice.
• 

Somewhere to stay

With so much choice, how do you choose where to stay? For me, I like the main sights to be within walking distance along with some good places to eat near by. Apatamentos MK77, Identia Sport was spot on. Super modern, a swift 15 minute walk from the station. The food and wine on this trip was particularly memorable, in respect of quality and value for money. Firstly, breakfast. Without a doubt, the most important meal of the day and what León had to offer did not disappoint! Try Sonríe – Coffee&Brunch

Panadería Flecha an artisan bakery that’s been in the city since 1957 is undoubtably worth a visit. Croissant choco and cafe, divine.

El Rincon de Aysha 2. A lively neighbourhood bar, less than a 5 minute walk from my apartment was a great find for the evenings. Tapas, wine, sports along with a warm friendly atmosphere. 2 doors up there’s another super option, didn’t catch the name but the wine was to be noted, picture of the bottle taken!

Churches obviously too many to mention

Two, undoubtably too significant to miss

León Catedral, one of the most relevant examples of the Gothic style in Spain, almost all of it built from 1205 to 1301. Web Oficial de la Catedral de León – Noticias It contains one of the most extensive and best preserved collections of medieval stained glass in Europe. It’s windows cover a vast surface area and the majority are original.

Convent of San Marcos a historical landmark (currently a luxurious Parador) built from the 16th century AD to the 18th. It’s most striking feature is it’s highly ornamental plateresque façade.

More than a building

Casa Botines, a neogothic styled building designed by Antoni Gaudí. 🥇 Museo Gaudí – Museo Casa Botines Gaudí en León Built in 1891-1892 (one of the three Gaudí buildings outside Catalonia). I found the booking system on the website a little confusing so just rocked up and bought a ticket at the door. Its splendid. As well as, being able to discover the buildings interesting history and admire the decor of the time, Casa Botines hosts exhibitions, permanent & temporary. Oh and not to be missed the views across the city and plaza. It’s not the main square that’s Plaza Mayor a site in itself and currently undergoing restoration.

Arte – an unexpected find

Who was José Vela Zanetti Sobre el artista – Fundación Vela Zanetti A Spanish painter and muralist who worked in Spain, the Dominican Republic and the United States. A brief introduction – Vela Zanetti was born in Milagros (Province of Burgos) May 27, 1913. He grew up in León but later moved to Madrid, where he studied under José Ramón Zaragoza. In 1931, his first solo exhibition was held in León. He was awarded a scholarship to study in Italy in 1933.

In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, Vela Zanetti’s father was executed for his socialist beliefs. Subsequently, at the end of the war, in 1939, Vela Zanetti went into exile in the Dominican Republic.

What the man himself had to say about this space and foundation:

“No quiero que esta Fundación sea un mero lugar al que ir a ver mis cuadros, sino una atmósfera en la que todo joven que se adentre en ella sienta que también él puede cumplir sus sueños, con vocación y fuerza de voluntad”

“I don’t want this Foundation to be a mere place to go to see my paintings, but an atmosphere in which every young person who enters it feels that he too can fulfill his dreams, with vocation and willpower”

A small sample of some of the works on display, contrasting paint and pencil.

Astorga! A Bonus Trip

I made this trip in Autumn. The colours are amazing but this is the north. Temperatures were low and the chance of rain was high. I was going to see some sometime, unless I could dodge it! How? Slip in a a day trip to Astorga.

A little bit of geography to introduce the location.

Astorga lies in the area of the Maragatos, a small ethnic and cultural community with distinctive customs and architecture. Furthermore, the town lies at the junction of two routes of the Camino de Santiago. The French Route, the most popular and the Silver Route from Mérida in southern Spain, an alternative route of the Way of St. James. Camino de Santiago | All the Routes, Stages, Maps and Towns

Besides, it was easy and cheap to get there, another train. Downside, an early start. I arrived in darkness a little before 8am. A 10 to 15 minute walk from the station and I found coffee and cake (it came free with the coffee!).

The Highlights

Episcopal Palace of Astorga more architecture by Antoni Gaudí. Built in the late 1800’s, after the previous palace burned down. It’s modernist building in the neo-Gothic style. A fairytale castle and palace, on the outside very grey. Gaudí chose granite from El Bierzo, in contrast to the Roman walls and red sandstone of the town’s Catedral . While on the inside the windows are an array of colour, remarkable. Palacio Episcopal de Astorga

Secondly, Catedral de Astorga – Culto / Visita Turística / Historia Just dropping this in, my photos don’t do it justice.

Feedback & Sharing

Wherever you are in the world, I hope this site encourages you to explore, search for the wonderful, unusual or ordinary beyond your local community. We are not here for long. Happy travels, stay safe! Please share and feedback. Hasta pronto!

But hey no Flamenco again!

And this is a 2 minute read, focusing on the event but highlighting a great place to stay.

The Venue: El Palacio de Exposiciones y Congresos de Granada. A conference and exhibition centre. It’s in the city centre, on paseo del Violón and sits on the left had side of the river Genil. A great venue, for a much bigger gig than the last one I was in Granada for.

The view from El Palacio

Café Quijano on their Manhattan Tour 2024. Café Quijano – Cafe Quijano

A Spanish Latino rock group. Three brothers Manuel, Óscar y Raúl Quijano originating from the Spanish city of León (I’m bound to get there sometime).

A great night. These guys are entertainers.

Just when I thought it was all over, the encore and my favourite track, “Perdonarme”. Check them out on all the usual platforms.

Base Camp

Set in an Andalusian manor house from the year 1700. I arrived to find a note on the door. “Back in 5 minutes, you are welcome to wait in the cafe across the street”. Off across the street, then. I learn it’s a husband and wife duo, he’s in the cafe and explains she’s just popped out to collect the children from school, no problem. I take a drink and a seat and in less than 5 minutes the lady and 2 lovely little girls arrive to show me to my room. It’s quirky, individual decor, just what I like!

A bite to eat

I’m a creature of habit and a ‘frequent flyer’ to Granada. When I like a place, I go back! So not much to add here with the exception of breakfast at the cafe run by the owners of the Pension. Good traditional Spanish fare, big portions to set you up for the day and great value for money. The service is none too shabby either, it was busy and I expected a wait, especially for my second coffee. But no they had it covered.

Footnote for next post

The Spanish city of León gets a mention and I got there. It’s coming soon.

Jaén city, the capital and administrative and industrial centre for the province of Jaén. In the interior, easy to get to by bus from Malaga, via Granada.

Businesses in and around the city include chemical works, tanneries, distilleries, cookie factories, textile factories, as well as agricultural and olive oil processing machinery industry.

Not sounding too interesting or easy on the eye? Think again, it has other things going on, that make it worth a visit. And that’s why cultural tourism is on the rise!

The layout of Jaén is determined by its position on the foothills of the Cerro de Santa Catalina. Steep, narrow streets, in the historic core surround the star of the show. Catedral de Jaén – Santa Iglesia Catedral de la Asunción de la Virgen It’s splendid, inside and out. Impeccably maintained it offers amazing views of not just the town but the surrounding countryside and vast skies.

The timing of my visit

The second weekend in October. Why now? A concert but I got lucky . I got more than I bargained for. Here’s why

Feria de San Lucas 2024 Jaén 【 11 al 20 Octubre 】

Back to the concert. The last date on the Andalucían leg of La Plazuela’s 2024 tour and the end of summer.

Who are La Plazuela? La Plazuela is a musical duo from Granada. The duo, Manuel Hidalgo Sierra, El Indio, and Luis Abril Martín, El Nitro. They formed in 2019, creating music that is a fusion of flamenco, funk, pop, and electronica.

They have not forgotten flamenco’s roots being influenced by artists of the genre’s early period, such as Camarón, Enrique Morente, Pata Negra and Ketama and the music they created.More recently they have been influenced by artists like David de Jacoba and have collaborated with him on the EP, La Caleta, May 2024. And don’t miss their album, Roneo Funk Club released April 23, a great listen.

The venue, Auditorio Municipal De La Alameda situated where else but in the beautiful El parque de la Alameda. Also known as the Alameda de Capuchinos, It’s one of the city’s main parks as well as being the oldest, dating back to 1577.

Jaén & Gastronomy

This city has a whole thing about food going on and so it should. Follow Gastronomía Jaén on Facebook. It’s a page that’s a bit of fun. Spanish humour, mixed with posts to showcase the delicious dishes served up in local restaurants.

Most provinces in Andalucía put their own spin on traditional dishes and Jaén’s no different. As do individual cafeterías. I ordered a tostada tomate, jamon & queso, that’s what I got. But the toast was loaded, it was prepared with the olive oil and tomato but the ham & cheese were served separately and the quality was exceptional. Something so simple but perfect to start your day.

I’m sad to say I can’t remember the name to give mention here but it’s on the street to the right on the cathedral under the arches. And you can expect a warm welcome from the staff and locals a like.

The Highlights

Sometimes the best things are the small things. I went to Jaén for a concert. That was my driver and it was a great night. Would I have gone otherwise? Possibly not. Would I go back? Without a doubt! Already looking to fit a trip in!

Why? The people and the food. Thinking back about my trips around Andalucía and Spain this year and stress none have disappointed, based on the people and the food, this was by far the best.

Everyone I met, young, old and anywhere in between they were polite, respectful & kind. And they wanted to know, was your food good? Could we make it better? Did you enjoy that cold beer? Was the wine to your liking? What brings you to Jaen? Some places to try Bocateria Tiene Miga – outside dining, great food, super pleasant staff. Cerveceria Conde Duque – lunch.

Last but not least Jaen Plameras, Plaza Constitucion,3. Leyenda Alcasar & Rosca de Sobrasada, wow!

What else did I notice? No litter! I actually saw people going out of their way and making an effort to get to the nearest litter bin. I’m a little sad that I mention this, it should be a given that we will all do this but often it’s not the case. People showing some pride in their town and environment. Hats off to them.

Oh & there’s the Street Art

A bed for the night

Getting a room wasn’t easy. I didn’t know the concert coincided with San Lucas and initially gave up hope. But god loves a trier! I let a few weeks pass and resumed my quest, in the hope someone had cancelled. Hey presto, I got a room at the Hotel Europa Hotel Europa en Jaén – Web Oficial. It’s in a central location and does what it says on the tin. It’s clean, modern and practical, in short the equivalent of a Holiday Inn with a pleasant and helpful receptionist.

Feedback & Sharing

Autumn was a great time of year to hit Jaén, I’ll be back probably in the springtime. I hope you’re tempted to go take a a look for yourself and enjoy the hospitality. As ever, happy to receive feedback and please share. Happy travels, even if it’s from you’re arm chair. Hasta luego!

I’ve left Andalucía! Pamplona – part of the Basque Country: Iruña historically but also known as Pampeluna in English. It is the capital city of the chartered community of Navarre.

How did I get here?

Train, train and another train. Oh and then a bus (but that wasn’t in the plan). Easy journey. Fuengirola to Malaga-María Zambrano, Malaga to Madrid-Puerta de Atocha (the biggest and busiest rail hub in Spain), Madrid to Pamplona-Iruña. 3 days before my trip message from Renfe. Work on the tracks means my train journey will end at Tafalla, 30km south of Pamplona. Bus provided so all good. Same on the reverse trip. Departure time brought forward 30 minutes, no biggy.

A little bit of background

The city is famous worldwide for the running of the bulls  during the San Fermín festival. Held annually from 6 July to 14 July. This festival was brought to literary renown in 1926 with the publication of Ernest Hemingways’s novel, The Sun Also Rises . It is also home to Osasuna, the only Navarrese football club to have ever played in the Spanish Top Division.

On this occasion, another festival brought me to this wonderful city. Flamenco on Fire is an annual event in August. This year spanning 23rd August until 1st September. Neighboring towns Viana and Tudela host the performances that kick off this music and dance spectacular which culminates with Grandes Conciertos in Pamplona. Great venues such as Baluarte | Eventos y Congresos en Pamplona and Sala Zentral www.zentralpamplona.com

Israel Fernandez Pura Sangre

But what else does this city have to offer?

Inicio – Museo de Navarra – navarra.es Much more interesting than I thought or expected. Like most museums, it offers permanent collection, that includes a portrait of the Marquis of San Adrián, painted by Francisco de Goya in 1804 but also hosts temporary exhibitions. A real gem, with admission priced at 2 euros.

catedraldepamplona.com

Catedral de Santa María la Real de Pamplona. A beautiful landmark in the city, very tranquil and restful inside. The city walls behind, offer stunning views and can provide a great outline for a walk.

Museo Universidad de Navarra (unav.edu) I wasn’t able to visit on this trip. The site was closed due to preparations for the their latest exhibition, unfortunate timing. I’ve been before and depending on the program and your interests, strongly recommend a visit. It’s on the outskirts of the city but the campus offers green open spaces, making the walk very pleasant. Staff are helpful and welcoming.

Food, Food, Food

Shed loads of choice. I was not disappointed in any of the bars and restaurants I visited, so just go for it! Best advice, hang with the locals and remember kitchens tend to open later in the evenings!

Sites around the city & a place to stay

Hotel Europa Hotel y Restaurante | Hotel Europa Pamplona | Navarra Europa’s central location ensures a steady flow of visitors around the year. The hotel with 25 rooms for travelers, comes with a restaurant that has won a Michelin Star. Serving traditional Spanish delicacies and special Navarra items, the wine cellar is quoted as something not to be missed. My room was a small double, with chic decoration, clean an comfortable but sadly no view.

Images of a day in Pamplona and

Day trip options

Pamplona has more than enough to offer. But, if you want to explore further north you’re a stone’s throw, well, a bus ride away from San Sebastián. Check out the Alsa App for details. Officially known by the bilingual name Donostia / San Sebastián. The city lies on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, 20 km from the France–Spain border.

Feedback & Sharing

As ever, my aim is to encourage folk to travel and give a glimpse of what’s on on offer in this huge and wonderful county. If you like what you read, please share site details with friends & family. If you’re not able to go, I hope what I write is shows the culture a good light. Happy to receive comments. Enjoy and stay safe.

How do you form an opinion? Usually, by reviewing information or personal experience. The second’s probably the best, you can’t beat first hand because everyone’s different. This blog gives my opinion doesn’t mean it’s right and doesn’t mean it’s wrong. It’s a view.

What had I seen of Algericas prior to my trip? The bus station, not pretty. The route around the port area to join the carretera. So really, not much and those views are not inspiring.

What did I know about Algerciras? It’s very industrial and it’s a port. One of the largest in Europe and a gateway to Morroco. Ferries to Tangier are frequent and take a quick route across the Strait of Gibralter. Ceuta, Spain is another popular destination. The Spanish enclave on the North African coast offers an interesting mix of Spanish and Moroccon influences, so I’m told.

I chose to go to Algerciras in July for a festival, “X Encuentra Internacional De Guitarra De Paco de Lucía”. No surprise there!

But really, I was curious. There’s got to be more to this city, right? Yes! It’s not one of the big hitters. It’s not Seville, Granada or Córdoba but if you’re travelling there are worse places to stop off or visit.

The Old Town

Plaza Alta is a square in the old town. It hosts numerous events and festivals throughout the year. Some of the city’s most important buildings, the Iglesia de la Palma Parroquia Nuestra Senora de la Palma and the Capilla de Europa stand on the square. Again, real pretty in traditional Spanish style. The surrounding streets are home to some very nice bars and restaurants and during my stay the food did not disappoint.

Parque María Cristina a notable place to visit. One of the oldest parks in the city, it’s not big but it’s very pretty by day and night. A great place for a concert.

Mercado de abastos or Mercado Ingeniero Torroja – In La plaza Baja de Algeciras also called Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Palma is a thriving Spanish market. Open daily Monday to Saturday offering an abundance of fresh produce amongst other things.

There’s a choice of cafeterias and I reckon the churros must be good judged by the length of the line!

In my humble opinion this city is a place to wander and take in the mix of cultures. It’s a traditional Spanish city with árabe influences. What has it got going for it? The people. The Food. The architecture. Pretty streets and parks. Music and art.

Finding food

When I arrived it was mid afternoon, an hour or so later than I had planned, due to traffic. The streets were deserted with most eateries closed for siesta. I did however, get a cold beer and freshly made to order sandwich at Cafeteria Riobamba. Later, in the evening finding somewhere to dine is not a problem. Around 8pm the streets burst back to life and the restaurants open their doors. La Mesón La Venencia offer excellent tapas and Spanish dishes. Breakfast in Algerciras, offered me an opportunity to try traditional árabe, Rghaifa, wow!

Where I hung my hat

“Hospedaje Lisboa” a short and pleasant 6 minute walk from the bus station. It’s in a good location. “Hospedaje” translates to lodging and that’s what it is. It’s not modern, it’s not chic. It’s family run and does what to says on the tin. I was made to feel welcome and the standout for me, the cleanliness, my room was spotless.

Will I come back?

I think so. Probably for an event. I’d like to visit the CENTRO de
INTERPRETACIÓN. Fundación – Fundación Paco De Lucía (fundacionpacodelucia.com) The Paco de Lucía Interpretation Centre was expected to open its doors during 2022 but that was not achieved. Hopefully the project will be completed in the near future.

Where would I stay? Without a doubt, I’d head back to Hospedaje Lisboa.

Feedback & Sharing

I hope this post encourages you to head to or stop off Algerciras if you’re on the road in Andalucía. As ever, enjoy your travels, and stay safe. Happy to receive comments and if you find this site useful please share. Muchisimo gracias.

Córdoba the city and capital of the province, lies primarily on the right bank of the Guadalquivir somewhere between Seville & Jaén. But lets not get caught up in the geography, not my strong point. A bus ride of 2 hours 30 mins will get you there, from Malaga. If you’re short on time or don’t fancy the bus journey, the train will get you there in just over an hour but will cost more. Unlike, Seville the bus and train stations sit side by side, so as far as access to the city goes, neither has an advantage.

In Andalucia, June is early summer time. But beware, Córdoba has the highest summer temperature in Spain and Europe. Average high temperatures are around 37 °C (99 °F) in July and August, with June not falling far short. A cool 32 °C was the score on the board – 15 June 2024.  Summers are very dry and winters mild with frequent rain. No matter the time of year, the skies are amazing.

Córdoba is the third most populated municipality in Andalusia and it’s a great place to visit. Like most Spanish cities it blends the old with the new. It’s home to stunning examples of Moorish architecture. Such as the renowned Mezquita. named as a Unesco World Heritage site in 1984 and now a cathedral.

Why did I go in June Noche Blanco Del Flamenco and the slightly less threatening temperatures are 2 reasons, as if I needed any, other than a weekend away. I’ve skimmed the surface with what’s on offer hoping it’s enough to get you out there, exploring!

Landmarks

But let’s start with the Mezquita Mosque-Cathedral Monumental Site of Cordoba | Web Oficial – Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba (mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es) and move on to the surrounding monuments. The design is magnificent. You don’t need to know all the in’s and outs to appreciate the beauty and colour. Be amazed by it, just enjoy!

The Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs alcazardelosreyescristianos.cordoba.es Just around the corner and across the road. The fortress, once one of the primary residences of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon hosts far reaching views and gardens that exude calm, just perfect to wander or sit.

Just walk and enjoy more

There’s a lot to admire in the streets of Córdoba. My advice, take the time to amble through the Jewish Quarter and wander across the Roman Bridge. Stop admire the views and be entertained by the various street performers. The riverside park and walk offers up ideal spots for a picnic. Climb the Calahorra Tower.

Wander through the Santa Marina neighbourhood but don’t pass by the Palacio de Viana. Stop, go in! It’s a personal favourite, more tangible history. Tours of the Palacio itself are guided & timed (in Spanish). A written history is offered in other languages but it’s very visual. With a combo ticket you also get to explore the 12 patios and surrounding gardens at your own pace.

Events in the Annual Calendar

Los Patios de Córdoba usually celebrated around the second or third week of May but check the dates before you go . It’s a unique opportunity to visit many of the private patios in the centro historica as they open their doors to the public during the competition.

Plan your route, as opening times are typically between 11 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon and then 6 till 10 in the evening. There are different categories in the competition. The surrounding architecture as well as the floral displays is taken into consideration when the judging takes place.

La Noche Blanco Del Flamenco

Not just an event but an experience! Depending on you’re staying power could be referred to as ‘pulling an all-nighter’. This years programme included 9 performances in different locations around the city. The audience moves through the streets in giant waves. The entertainment started at 22:30 and went on through the night with last performance starting sometime between 05:00 and 06:00am. This night is a chance to experience the variety that flamenco offers.

Royal Stables of Córdoba-Caballerizas Reale

You can visit throughout the year and you won’t be disappointed. Pasión y Duende del Caballo Andaluz is a spectaular show, performances usually take place in the evening Wednesday to Saturday. Córdoba Ecuestre 🐴 | Flamenco, caballos y pasión (cordobaecuestre.com) But the weekend of the Cabalcor in September is something special. A magnificent display of Andalucian horses and horsemanship. Competitions take place over 3 days in various disciplines. On the Saturday night of ‘Cabalcor’ weekend if you’re lucky enough to get a ticket there’s an extraordinary spectacular showcasing the Pasión but usually with a twist. I’ve been lucky enough to see guest troops perform including visitors from Russia! Check out the website for other special events.

Córdoba’s Cuisine

I love a traditional Spanish breakfast and for that I’d head to ‘Cafeteria Don Pepe‘ but after an all-nighter a good brunch might be in order. I recommend heading to ‘The Club’. The only place I know that takes reservations for breakfast and it’s advisable! Hats off to them for accepting reservations for solo diners!

I discovered this place when it was known as The Breakfast Club and occupied much smaller premises in the centro histórico. They’ve moved. You’ll now find them on the Guadalquivir – Av. Fray Albino,3. It’s a pleasant spot, easy to find but on the opposite side of the river. The food is fabulous and they are not shy when it comes to portion size. But don’t forget to make that reservation! You get you table for 90 minutes so it’s a chilled vibe, definitely not fast food.

Tapas, for the best tortilla in Córdoba, ‘Bar Santos’ is the place. Minute capacity, customers dine standing on the street and expect to queue. Nothing better with a caña (small beer).

There’s an array of bars and restaurants, too many to mention! Explore make a choice: try some ‘Rabo de Toro‘ (Spanish bull tail stew).

Hostel’s & Pensions are a plenty

I’ve stayed in Córdoba on 7 occasions usually in September, choosing to stay in different neighborhoods to get a real feel for the place. All good, all varied. I’ve seen comments about availability and high prices, festival time but there are still good options out there.

This trip, I took a room at ‘Hostel Mayflowers‘. What a find! I was more than happy with my room and it justified the price. Very clean & comfortable. Toni my host, was very helpful, nothing was a bother. An unexpected bonus was the communal kitchen off the traditional central patio. This offers guests a great place to relax and enjoy a tea, coffee or water before or after exploring the city. A quick glimpse, the patio in the picture was private, off my room.

Go make your on discoveries and memories. Don’t forget to look up! Have fun and stay safe! If any info here, has been of use and you had a good experience please share. Happy travelling!

Part 2 – Moving to Sacromonte a traditional neighbourhood in the eastern area of the city that forms the urban district of Albaicín.  It is located on the hillside and in the valley of Valparaíso, opposite the Alhambra. The neighborhood occupies both banks of the Darro river. Historically, the neighborhood of the Granadian Romani, it is one of the most picturesque areas of the city and home to traditional cave houses. The Romani of Sacromonte were famously portrayed by the poet Federico García Lorca in his book of poems Romancero Gitano.

Bar Pibe not a new find

The smallest bar in the world? !quite possibly¡ But definitely not to be missed and one of my favourite spots. It’s a huge disappointment if there’s no room at the inn. What’s not to like? Sit on the terraza, enjoy a beer and the traditional tapa. For the tapa, you don’t get to choose but it’s all good and if you have a second, it’ll be different. Relax and take in the view. If you get chance, pop in doors but keep your head down.

Sacromonte Abbey (Abadía del Sacromonte)

One of the city’s most important buildings. Perched on Valparaíso hill, the abbey takes a leading role at important points within the city’s festive calendar, including the procession of the Christ of the Gypsies, the most famous within Granada’s Holy Week. Within the building complex, you can see the Holy Caves, the seminary, the lead books and the relics of the disciples of Saint James the Apostle.

Sometimes, I just want to look at stuff, take in the architecture and atmosphere in these buildings. Based on that, what worked for me was the App that comes with this self-guided tour. No clunky handset, no dodgy earbuds and it’s easy to navigate.

Just listen to what’s of interest to you. And take in the enviable views that the Abadía offers you. Look across and down to Sacromonte, the Alhambra, Albaicín and the Darro. Well worth the 6 euro entry. And how lucky was I? The morning of my visit, it was choir practice, so atmospheric.
Inicio – Proyecto Abadia (abadiasacromonte.org) . You’ll have gathered by now, I’m a walker but if you want to take the bus, hop on the C34 from the city centre and it will get you within striking distance.

A lesson learnt

A weekend visit in November 2023. Having been here before, I came with a plan and arrived Friday afternoon. I’d done some homework but not enough. I chose my accommodation, Habitacion con encanto, based on facilities and location to suit what I thought I’d be doing on Saturday evening, visiting a local Peña.

Peña La Plateria to be specific Peña La Platería – Velando por el flamenco desde 1949 (laplateria.es) . Why? Alejandro Hurtado would be performing his new album Tamiz. I had tried to book in advance without success, no response to an email.

My host, Gregorio gave me directions, just around the corner, great! Off I went to book a table, what I didn’t know – Saturday evenings are “Socios” only. You need to be a member! I’d be welcome on a Thursday but not a Saturday. I was not unfamiliar with the concept of Peñas, I visit them in my home town, it’s the rules that are individual. I find them to be great venues so it’s not a criticism, just do plenty of research. If you don’t know the rules be prepared to be disappointed.

My New Find

Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I was a winner here. Role with it. Change the plan! I was lucky enough to pick up a ticket to Vanessa Flores (Baile) “Mi puresa, Flores” which in itself would have been enough. She’s a fantastic dancer! But the venue! La Chumbera – Sacromonte, wow……………..! I’m not going to reveal what makes this place so special, I had no idea but if you get the chance go. If you’re in Granada look out for the program information from Patrimonio Flamenco. They are performances of this art, not flamenco shows.

Charming Room ‘Habitacion con encanto‘

It’s exactly what it says. In a good location, not far from the main thoroughfares and close to the Río Darro. Searching the street for the right door I was greeted by my host, Gregorio, with a cheery ‘hola’ from a balcony high above. The room had everything I needed and nothing was a bother.

Fuel for the day

More food choices, you can’t beat a traditional Spanish breakfast to start your day. Another of my favourite spots, is 4 Gatos. In  Albaicín but relatively easy to find. It’s not big, the staff are friendly and pleasant, the menu simple. Dine outside, take in the view, chill and enjoy the coffee!

Feedback & Sharing

I hope you’ve enjoyed this post but more importantly, are inspired to visit Granada and experience what it has to offer for yourself. If you get chance mention and share! Comments to improve, appreciated. Muchas Gracias.

Granada, Part 1!

It’s becoming my second home. I visit this city often. I never tire of it and I have not seen it all. It’s famous for it’s main and best known attraction, the legendary and awe inspiring Alhambra but it has so much more to offer. It’s easy to reach by bus or train from Malaga. My preference the bus, based on cost and availability. A short and comfortable 1.5 hour journey time.

The bus station is a hub for connections and onward journeys, so not located in the city centre. However, the bus line 33 will get you to within easy reach of the Alhambra and the Albaicín and Sacromonte quarters or you can walk. It’s flat and only takes around 30-40 mins. This way you get the chance to see a little more or stop for a coffee. There are plenty of local cafeteria’s to choose from along the way.

If you’re staying on the Costa del Sol and want to mix things up with a cultural day trip, Granada’s a great choice. If you’re organised you can do the “main attraction” in a day. Here’s my problem, I’m organised and chaotic at the same time. I get distracted and wander off. Who knows what you might find or where the time goes! Hence my frequent weekend trips. They allow for me getting caught up in the magic of things I find and turning this post into a mini series.

The Main Attraction! The Alhambra

Let’s get the Alhambra done. Unmissable? Yes. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. It is a palace and fortress complex and one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and best preserved palaces of the historic, Islamic world. In addition it also contains notable examples of Spanish renaissance architecture. Don’t dismiss the gardens – Generalife. In particular, the Water Stairway warrants attention.

The Alhambra! From Albaicín

Of note, they do not enforce a strict dress code here but visitors are expected to dress with respect toward the site’s rich cultural and historical essence. Modesty and comfort are key, given the Alhambra’s religious and cultural sensitivities.

It’s an amazing place to visit but beware the queues. Plan ahead and book on-line, this is not a place to just rock up to. Alhambra de Granada (tickets-alhambra-palace.com)

Is there anything else? Hell yes! Don’t miss out on the lesser known sites.

Catedral de Granada

Or the Cathedral of the Incarnation (Catedral de Granada, Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación de Granada).

Definitely not lesser known and of great significance. It is a Roman Catholic Church and like many other cathedrals in Andalucia, it was built on top of the city’s main mosque after the reconquest of Granada. You can combine this visit and see the Royal Chapel of Granada (Capilla Real de Granada). Constructed between 1505 and 1517, it is the burial place of the Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs. Apart from these historical links, this building also contains a gallery of artworks and other items associated with Queen Isabella. Again, if this is for you, I’d pre-book. Catedral de Granada – Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación de Granada

La Casa de Zafra

This 14th-century Nasrid house is located in the very heart of Albaicín a little piece of the Muslim quarters history.  The house belonged to a family of Andalusian aristocrats and its Arab essence has been preserved, especially in the pool in the courtyard.

Like most Arab houses, the exterior of the House of Zafra is sober. It’s intention? To hide the luxury and comforts of the time, from foreign eyes. Inside it has several rooms spread over two floors and again you get beautiful views of the Alhambra. Casa de Zafra | Turismo | Ayuntamiento de Granada

Some simple stuff to enjoy

Visit a tea house on the walk through the cobbled streets heading to Mirador de San Nicolás. High up in Albaicín. What is it? It’s a viewpoint. A square in front of San Nicolás church which was built on top of a mosque in 1525. It’s known for the stunning views of the Alhambra and sitting in the background the Sierra Nevada mountains. A visit inside the church offers you the chance of slightly better views, if you are up for climbing the bell tower.

Its also home to La Mezquita Mayor de Granada. Página oficial de la Mezquita Mayor de Granada (mezquitadegranada.com)

The place get’s busy. Local crafts are on sale. Musicians, dancers and painters all bring something to liven up the atmosphere. The most popular time to visit is sunset. It’s all about the light and the glow cast upon those magnificent palaces but if you’re a morning person, beat the rush. The sunrises are fantastic and the quiet!

Feeding Time

There are some great cafeterias, bars and restaurant’s all around this city and I´ll highlight them when I stayed in that neighbourhood. All of those that get a mention, I return to time and time again. If I don’t have a good experience, I won’t write them up and definitely won’t be back!

Let’s start with Café Fútbol. It’s been around for more than 100 years! Dine inside or outside, in the plaza across the street. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve been here and I’ve never been disappointed. Great for breakfast, tapas or ice cream!

La Lirio, below. An early morning shot, doors closed and no-one around. Lunchtime there’s a different view. This place is right on the Darro, opposite side of the river to Carrera del Darro. The menu’s not extensive but they offer up great authentic dishes, cold beer and ask reasonable prices. Outside dining, friendly, helpful staff and usually have a good soundtrack on!

Room with a view

Albaicín is a great neigbourhood to stay in. Who wouldn’t want to stay in a traditional casa? But bear in mind a lot of properties are only accessible on foot. You might want to travel light.

September 2023, edging out of summer. I stayed at Casa Guidai and it was an authentic Spanish experience, that I would be happy to repeat. It was peaceful with beautiful views and there was nothing not to like, once you’ve found it. It’s not clearly marked and the neighbours very nearly got the pleasure of my company!

ç

Feedback & Sharing

Here’s hoping you will be tempted to travel to Granada. As ever, if you find your way to any of the places featured, I hope you enjoy your visit. Please let them know who pointed you in their direction. Muchas gracias.

Seville the hottest city in Europe? Probably! Getting there – it’s easy to each from Malaga via bus or train from the respective stations at Maria Zambrano . The direct bus service gets you to Plaza de Armas in 2 hours 45 mins. If you opt for the train, the fastest service will get you to Santa Justa in 2 hours 2 mins . These two stations are both on the east side of the river, the city centre but a 40 minute walk apart.

This is a 2 for 1 post. Drawing info from a delightful few days in December and a weekend visit in April. There’s something about Seville! No matter when you visit, don’t forget to look up and take in those skies!

Day Tripper? If you’re on holiday and staying elsewhere, Costa del Sol perhaps. An organized trip will give you a glimpse of this marvelous city but just a glimpse. But you do get to enjoy being on the bus for an hour before you even get out of Malaga. There’s so much to explore in Seville. I’ve not covered half of it here. Two weekend trips and I’ll be back – soon.

Things to do – places to see

If you want to locate the top sights, without pounding the pavements, there’s a choice of sightseeing bus options. Go green with Alsa. There’s a 5 euro discount is available via a scanned code for those who travel to Seville with Alsa.

La Catedral de Seville You can just admire it’s architecture from outside or if you choose to visit the cathedral I’d strongly recommend the roof top tour. It’s guided for obvious reasons and you wouldn’t want to get lost up there. It offers the most awe inspiring views of the city and life on the ground. I took this tour on a sunny morning in December 2023 and the guide was an excellent narrator, without hitting information overload. A thoroughly pleasant way to spend a couple of hours. Seville Cathedral Tour (catedraldesevilla.com)

Plaza de España A famous landmark on the east side of the city, just perfect for a stroll. Just admire the architecture or be entertained by the numerous artists performing for free but hoping for a donation. For the more adventurous and energetic there are boats for hire too. Don’t miss out on the heavenly gardens that surround this monument either.

Plaza de Toros (de la Maestranza) Most Spanish cities have one and Seville is no exception, east side again close to the river. You can´t miss it. Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza – Empresa Pagés – Sevilla

La Setas de Sevilla Something less traditional, modern & amazing in itself. Originally called Metropol Parasol, it’s a large, predominantly wooden structure located at La Encarnación square, in the old quarter. It’s home to a traditional market, restaurants, a performance square, archaeological museum — and ‘rooftop’ terrace with panoramic views. Inicio – Setas de Sevilla

Let’s not forget the Guadalquivir River This green river, divides the city and a relaxing boat trip offers views of both sides.

Oh and did I mention the shops on both the east and west sides !

Let’s cross the River into Triana

A fine neighborhood with a history of it’s own.

Castillo de Triana: Ferdinand III of Castile destroyed this citadel and the bridge before taking Seville in 1248. The castle of Triana later became the first Christian church in the neighborhood now known as Castillo de San Jorge. Under the rule of the Catholic Monarchs, the castle of Triana served as the seat of the Spanish Inquisition from 1481 until 1785.

The current bridge, the iconic Puente de Isabel II  was built in 1854. It replaced the earlier boat-bridge and remains a symbol of the neighborhood.

For centuries, Triana has been a neighborhood of sailors, potters and industrialists. It has a vibrant artistic scene that has contributed significantly to Sevillian culture and tradition. Get your ceramics here. It has a rich flamenco culture and gained fame through it’s bullfighters, singers and flamenco artists. The gypsy influence is undeniable and adds so much to the rich tapestry of the community.

Teatro de Triana – December 2023 Triana le Canta a la Navidad – Triana sings to Christmas. What a show and what an experience! Local artists from the community presenting and interpreting traditional songs from Christmas in times gone by. The strong gypsy influence was present and the talent on show was amazing. The atmosphere, a great sense of community and pride.

My ticket said the performance was 8 till 9.30 doors open 30 mins in advance. Excellent, time for dinner after the show. I left at 11.30! Just a tad late, am I glad I stayed till the end? Yes most definitely and you can always grab an Argentinian Empanada or 2 on the way home. Nothing lost! Teatro de Triana and the community who contribute to it, deserve support. It was a great night. El Teatro deTriana

Flamenqueria Sevilla – April 2024 Intimos de Triana – Lela Soto y Jose Del Tomate

I think I need to be clear here, this is not and should not be confused with a “Flamenco Show”. An introduction to Intimos. What’s an intimo? An intimate performance, in a small venue with limited seats. The maximum for this event was 90. What do you get? An amazing totally acoustic performance. Raw, simple, perfect. Up close and personal. No frills but none needed, the talent of these two shone through. Mid-way percussion arrived, impromptu or late? Not sure, just another surprise. Flamenquería (flamenqueria.es)

Scrumptious servings

Lets do this in order, breakfast, lunch and dinner! December 23 then April 24.

Curros – Calle Feria 57. Close to Almeda de Hercules on the east side of the city. Where the locals buy their bread. Not flash but offering good wholesome fare to set you up for the day. I’ve eaten here on several occasions and never been disappointed. If your passing later in the day, consider a cake.

Divino – at the top or perhaps the bottom of Almeda de Hercules. A great spot to grab some lunch and a refreshing beer, more than pleasant and outside in the winter sunshine.

La Ilustre, un bar etc. It does what it says, serves beer, wine, cocktails and food in a nice atmosphere but what made the difference for me, was the staff. I was enjoying my wine and pondering over the menu, I didn´t want a big plate. One of the guys behind the bar kindly asked if I’d prefer some tapas outside of the menu and gave some options. It was spot on, just what I wanted.

It was a relatively quiet night in December and it’s not a big bar, 3 or 4 tables were occupied at the time so I don´t know if this is the norm but hat’s off to them! I’d definitely go back, the chicken curry and couscous was delicious as was everything else I sampled.

Triana – Cafe Bravo – Sunday morning it’s a haven for locals, catching up with friends or reading the paper. Staff and customers alike were welcoming and I had a delicious breakfast served in a modern, chilled setting. I doubt they can be beaten on value for money.

Puente de Barcas – Cafe y Copas I dropped in here on my way from the bus station to my accommodation. It wasn´t far of closing time for the afternoon siesta, essentially they had stopped serving food. Not to worry, the waitress was happy to serve up a hot pork & cheese sandwich with my beer. Again, it’s the staff that make the place.

Bodeguita Albero I was looking for dinner on route to Flamenqueria, “Orillas de Triana” and came across this place. What a find! Cannot recommend it enough. Simple, clean decor, great menu with plenty of choice and serves the best Rulo de Cabra Caramelizado, I have ever tasted. I took advice from the waiter and downsized my ensaladilla de casa to a tapa portion in preference to a medio racion. He was right! A half portion would have been way too much and the tapa left just enough room for me to try a dessert. I was not disappointed, it was divine. It was so good I went back the next night. Might sound boring but……..

Where did I hang my hat?

In two different neighborhoods and in two contrasting styles of accommodation. Both equally as good but different. Right, from the off, let’s start with locations and the welcomes.

Mid December 2023 I stayed at Feria Palace Apartment. On the east side, close to Almeda de Hercules. I was made welcome by my host Daniel, we had quite a chat. The apartment was lovely, everything I needed was on hand. And the best part of this experience, the setting, a beautiful building with a traditional Sevillian patio. The bedroom is a mezzanine, just so pretty. Who knows what is hidden behind those insignificant wood doors.

Moving on to April 2024 I moved to the west side of the river. The welcome – an email when I made the booking 3 months ago. Nothing wrong with that, it contained all the necessary information for an easy check-in I just forgot to read it again! Only personal contact with the host a quick phone call when I was on the street looking for the “puerta” but nevertheless a great place to stay. “Villa Triana“ the name of my home for the weekend. Big hint here? Mmm sort of, it’s in Triana but it’s not a villa.

I hope you are lucky enough to get the opportunity to visit Seville and enjoy what it has to offer. If you swing by or stop at any of the places mentioned here let them know where you got the tip. Muchas gracias. Happy & safe travelling.