Snapshots

Part 2 – Moving to Sacromonte a traditional neighbourhood in the eastern area of the city that forms the urban district of Albaicín.  It is located on the hillside and in the valley of Valparaíso, opposite the Alhambra. The neighborhood occupies both banks of the Darro river. Historically, the neighborhood of the Granadian Romani, it is one of the most picturesque areas of the city and home to traditional cave houses. The Romani of Sacromonte were famously portrayed by the poet Federico García Lorca in his book of poems Romancero Gitano.

Bar Pibe not a new find

The smallest bar in the world? !quite possibly¡ But definitely not to be missed and one of my favourite spots. It’s a huge disappointment if there’s no room at the inn. What’s not to like? Sit on the terraza, enjoy a beer and the traditional tapa. For the tapa, you don’t get to choose but it’s all good and if you have a second, it’ll be different. Relax and take in the view. If you get chance, pop in doors but keep your head down.

Sacromonte Abbey (Abadía del Sacromonte)

One of the city’s most important buildings. Perched on Valparaíso hill, the abbey takes a leading role at important points within the city’s festive calendar, including the procession of the Christ of the Gypsies, the most famous within Granada’s Holy Week. Within the building complex, you can see the Holy Caves, the seminary, the lead books and the relics of the disciples of Saint James the Apostle.

Sometimes, I just want to look at stuff, take in the architecture and atmosphere in these buildings. Based on that, what worked for me was the App that comes with this self-guided tour. No clunky handset, no dodgy earbuds and it’s easy to navigate.

Just listen to what’s of interest to you. And take in the enviable views that the Abadía offers you. Look across and down to Sacromonte, the Alhambra, Albaicín and the Darro. Well worth the 6 euro entry. And how lucky was I? The morning of my visit, it was choir practice, so atmospheric.
Inicio – Proyecto Abadia (abadiasacromonte.org) . You’ll have gathered by now, I’m a walker but if you want to take the bus, hop on the C34 from the city centre and it will get you within striking distance.

A lesson learnt

A weekend visit in November 2023. Having been here before, I came with a plan and arrived Friday afternoon. I’d done some homework but not enough. I chose my accommodation, Habitacion con encanto, based on facilities and location to suit what I thought I’d be doing on Saturday evening, visiting a local Peña.

Peña La Plateria to be specific Peña La Platería – Velando por el flamenco desde 1949 (laplateria.es) . Why? Alejandro Hurtado would be performing his new album Tamiz. I had tried to book in advance without success, no response to an email.

My host, Gregorio gave me directions, just around the corner, great! Off I went to book a table, what I didn’t know – Saturday evenings are “Socios” only. You need to be a member! I’d be welcome on a Thursday but not a Saturday. I was not unfamiliar with the concept of Peñas, I visit them in my home town, it’s the rules that are individual. I find them to be great venues so it’s not a criticism, just do plenty of research. If you don’t know the rules be prepared to be disappointed.

My New Find

Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I was a winner here. Role with it. Change the plan! I was lucky enough to pick up a ticket to Vanessa Flores (Baile) “Mi puresa, Flores” which in itself would have been enough. She’s a fantastic dancer! But the venue! La Chumbera – Sacromonte, wow……………..! I’m not going to reveal what makes this place so special, I had no idea but if you get the chance go. If you’re in Granada look out for the program information from Patrimonio Flamenco. They are performances of this art, not flamenco shows.

Charming Room ‘Habitacion con encanto‘

It’s exactly what it says. In a good location, not far from the main thoroughfares and close to the Río Darro. Searching the street for the right door I was greeted by my host, Gregorio, with a cheery ‘hola’ from a balcony high above. The room had everything I needed and nothing was a bother.

Fuel for the day

More food choices, you can’t beat a traditional Spanish breakfast to start your day. Another of my favourite spots, is 4 Gatos. In  Albaicín but relatively easy to find. It’s not big, the staff are friendly and pleasant, the menu simple. Dine outside, take in the view, chill and enjoy the coffee!

Feedback & Sharing

I hope you’ve enjoyed this post but more importantly, are inspired to visit Granada and experience what it has to offer for yourself. If you get chance mention and share! Comments to improve, appreciated. Muchas Gracias.

Granada, Part 1!

It’s becoming my second home. I visit this city often. I never tire of it and I have not seen it all. It’s famous for it’s main and best known attraction, the legendary and awe inspiring Alhambra but it has so much more to offer. It’s easy to reach by bus or train from Malaga. My preference the bus, based on cost and availability. A short and comfortable 1.5 hour journey time.

The bus station is a hub for connections and onward journeys, so not located in the city centre. However, the bus line 33 will get you to within easy reach of the Alhambra and the Albaicín and Sacromonte quarters or you can walk. It’s flat and only takes around 30-40 mins. This way you get the chance to see a little more or stop for a coffee. There are plenty of local cafeteria’s to choose from along the way.

If you’re staying on the Costa del Sol and want to mix things up with a cultural day trip, Granada’s a great choice. If you’re organised you can do the “main attraction” in a day. Here’s my problem, I’m organised and chaotic at the same time. I get distracted and wander off. Who knows what you might find or where the time goes! Hence my frequent weekend trips. They allow for me getting caught up in the magic of things I find and turning this post into a mini series.

The Main Attraction! The Alhambra

Let’s get the Alhambra done. Unmissable? Yes. It’s a UNESCO world heritage site. It is a palace and fortress complex and one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and best preserved palaces of the historic, Islamic world. In addition it also contains notable examples of Spanish renaissance architecture. Don’t dismiss the gardens – Generalife. In particular, the Water Stairway warrants attention.

The Alhambra! From Albaicín

Of note, they do not enforce a strict dress code here but visitors are expected to dress with respect toward the site’s rich cultural and historical essence. Modesty and comfort are key, given the Alhambra’s religious and cultural sensitivities.

It’s an amazing place to visit but beware the queues. Plan ahead and book on-line, this is not a place to just rock up to. Alhambra de Granada (tickets-alhambra-palace.com)

Is there anything else? Hell yes! Don’t miss out on the lesser known sites.

Catedral de Granada

Or the Cathedral of the Incarnation (Catedral de Granada, Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación de Granada).

Definitely not lesser known and of great significance. It is a Roman Catholic Church and like many other cathedrals in Andalucia, it was built on top of the city’s main mosque after the reconquest of Granada. You can combine this visit and see the Royal Chapel of Granada (Capilla Real de Granada). Constructed between 1505 and 1517, it is the burial place of the Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs. Apart from these historical links, this building also contains a gallery of artworks and other items associated with Queen Isabella. Again, if this is for you, I’d pre-book. Catedral de Granada – Santa Iglesia Catedral Metropolitana de la Encarnación de Granada

La Casa de Zafra

This 14th-century Nasrid house is located in the very heart of Albaicín a little piece of the Muslim quarters history.  The house belonged to a family of Andalusian aristocrats and its Arab essence has been preserved, especially in the pool in the courtyard.

Like most Arab houses, the exterior of the House of Zafra is sober. It’s intention? To hide the luxury and comforts of the time, from foreign eyes. Inside it has several rooms spread over two floors and again you get beautiful views of the Alhambra. Casa de Zafra | Turismo | Ayuntamiento de Granada

Some simple stuff to enjoy

Visit a tea house on the walk through the cobbled streets heading to Mirador de San Nicolás. High up in Albaicín. What is it? It’s a viewpoint. A square in front of San Nicolás church which was built on top of a mosque in 1525. It’s known for the stunning views of the Alhambra and sitting in the background the Sierra Nevada mountains. A visit inside the church offers you the chance of slightly better views, if you are up for climbing the bell tower.

Its also home to La Mezquita Mayor de Granada. Página oficial de la Mezquita Mayor de Granada (mezquitadegranada.com)

The place get’s busy. Local crafts are on sale. Musicians, dancers and painters all bring something to liven up the atmosphere. The most popular time to visit is sunset. It’s all about the light and the glow cast upon those magnificent palaces but if you’re a morning person, beat the rush. The sunrises are fantastic and the quiet!

Feeding Time

There are some great cafeterias, bars and restaurant’s all around this city and I´ll highlight them when I stayed in that neighbourhood. All of those that get a mention, I return to time and time again. If I don’t have a good experience, I won’t write them up and definitely won’t be back!

Let’s start with Café Fútbol. It’s been around for more than 100 years! Dine inside or outside, in the plaza across the street. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve been here and I’ve never been disappointed. Great for breakfast, tapas or ice cream!

La Lirio, below. An early morning shot, doors closed and no-one around. Lunchtime there’s a different view. This place is right on the Darro, opposite side of the river to Carrera del Darro. The menu’s not extensive but they offer up great authentic dishes, cold beer and ask reasonable prices. Outside dining, friendly, helpful staff and usually have a good soundtrack on!

Room with a view

Albaicín is a great neigbourhood to stay in. Who wouldn’t want to stay in a traditional casa? But bear in mind a lot of properties are only accessible on foot. You might want to travel light.

September 2023, edging out of summer. I stayed at Casa Guidai and it was an authentic Spanish experience, that I would be happy to repeat. It was peaceful with beautiful views and there was nothing not to like, once you’ve found it. It’s not clearly marked and the neighbours very nearly got the pleasure of my company!

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Feedback & Sharing

Here’s hoping you will be tempted to travel to Granada. As ever, if you find your way to any of the places featured, I hope you enjoy your visit. Please let them know who pointed you in their direction. Muchas gracias.

Seville the hottest city in Europe? Probably! Getting there – it’s easy to each from Malaga via bus or train from the respective stations at Maria Zambrano . The direct bus service gets you to Plaza de Armas in 2 hours 45 mins. If you opt for the train, the fastest service will get you to Santa Justa in 2 hours 2 mins . These two stations are both on the east side of the river, the city centre but a 40 minute walk apart.

This is a 2 for 1 post. Drawing info from a delightful few days in December and a weekend visit in April. There’s something about Seville! No matter when you visit, don’t forget to look up and take in those skies!

Day Tripper? If you’re on holiday and staying elsewhere, Costa del Sol perhaps. An organized trip will give you a glimpse of this marvelous city but just a glimpse. But you do get to enjoy being on the bus for an hour before you even get out of Malaga. There’s so much to explore in Seville. I’ve not covered half of it here. Two weekend trips and I’ll be back – soon.

Things to do – places to see

If you want to locate the top sights, without pounding the pavements, there’s a choice of sightseeing bus options. Go green with Alsa. There’s a 5 euro discount is available via a scanned code for those who travel to Seville with Alsa.

La Catedral de Seville You can just admire it’s architecture from outside or if you choose to visit the cathedral I’d strongly recommend the roof top tour. It’s guided for obvious reasons and you wouldn’t want to get lost up there. It offers the most awe inspiring views of the city and life on the ground. I took this tour on a sunny morning in December 2023 and the guide was an excellent narrator, without hitting information overload. A thoroughly pleasant way to spend a couple of hours. Seville Cathedral Tour (catedraldesevilla.com)

Plaza de España A famous landmark on the east side of the city, just perfect for a stroll. Just admire the architecture or be entertained by the numerous artists performing for free but hoping for a donation. For the more adventurous and energetic there are boats for hire too. Don’t miss out on the heavenly gardens that surround this monument either.

Plaza de Toros (de la Maestranza) Most Spanish cities have one and Seville is no exception, east side again close to the river. You can´t miss it. Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza – Empresa Pagés – Sevilla

La Setas de Sevilla Something less traditional, modern & amazing in itself. Originally called Metropol Parasol, it’s a large, predominantly wooden structure located at La Encarnación square, in the old quarter. It’s home to a traditional market, restaurants, a performance square, archaeological museum — and ‘rooftop’ terrace with panoramic views. Inicio – Setas de Sevilla

Let’s not forget the Guadalquivir River This green river, divides the city and a relaxing boat trip offers views of both sides.

Oh and did I mention the shops on both the east and west sides !

Let’s cross the River into Triana

A fine neighborhood with a history of it’s own.

Castillo de Triana: Ferdinand III of Castile destroyed this citadel and the bridge before taking Seville in 1248. The castle of Triana later became the first Christian church in the neighborhood now known as Castillo de San Jorge. Under the rule of the Catholic Monarchs, the castle of Triana served as the seat of the Spanish Inquisition from 1481 until 1785.

The current bridge, the iconic Puente de Isabel II  was built in 1854. It replaced the earlier boat-bridge and remains a symbol of the neighborhood.

For centuries, Triana has been a neighborhood of sailors, potters and industrialists. It has a vibrant artistic scene that has contributed significantly to Sevillian culture and tradition. Get your ceramics here. It has a rich flamenco culture and gained fame through it’s bullfighters, singers and flamenco artists. The gypsy influence is undeniable and adds so much to the rich tapestry of the community.

Teatro de Triana – December 2023 Triana le Canta a la Navidad – Triana sings to Christmas. What a show and what an experience! Local artists from the community presenting and interpreting traditional songs from Christmas in times gone by. The strong gypsy influence was present and the talent on show was amazing. The atmosphere, a great sense of community and pride.

My ticket said the performance was 8 till 9.30 doors open 30 mins in advance. Excellent, time for dinner after the show. I left at 11.30! Just a tad late, am I glad I stayed till the end? Yes most definitely and you can always grab an Argentinian Empanada or 2 on the way home. Nothing lost! Teatro de Triana and the community who contribute to it, deserve support. It was a great night. El Teatro deTriana

Flamenqueria Sevilla – April 2024 Intimos de Triana – Lela Soto y Jose Del Tomate

I think I need to be clear here, this is not and should not be confused with a “Flamenco Show”. An introduction to Intimos. What’s an intimo? An intimate performance, in a small venue with limited seats. The maximum for this event was 90. What do you get? An amazing totally acoustic performance. Raw, simple, perfect. Up close and personal. No frills but none needed, the talent of these two shone through. Mid-way percussion arrived, impromptu or late? Not sure, just another surprise. Flamenquería (flamenqueria.es)

Scrumptious servings

Lets do this in order, breakfast, lunch and dinner! December 23 then April 24.

Curros – Calle Feria 57. Close to Almeda de Hercules on the east side of the city. Where the locals buy their bread. Not flash but offering good wholesome fare to set you up for the day. I’ve eaten here on several occasions and never been disappointed. If your passing later in the day, consider a cake.

Divino – at the top or perhaps the bottom of Almeda de Hercules. A great spot to grab some lunch and a refreshing beer, more than pleasant and outside in the winter sunshine.

La Ilustre, un bar etc. It does what it says, serves beer, wine, cocktails and food in a nice atmosphere but what made the difference for me, was the staff. I was enjoying my wine and pondering over the menu, I didn´t want a big plate. One of the guys behind the bar kindly asked if I’d prefer some tapas outside of the menu and gave some options. It was spot on, just what I wanted.

It was a relatively quiet night in December and it’s not a big bar, 3 or 4 tables were occupied at the time so I don´t know if this is the norm but hat’s off to them! I’d definitely go back, the chicken curry and couscous was delicious as was everything else I sampled.

Triana – Cafe Bravo – Sunday morning it’s a haven for locals, catching up with friends or reading the paper. Staff and customers alike were welcoming and I had a delicious breakfast served in a modern, chilled setting. I doubt they can be beaten on value for money.

Puente de Barcas – Cafe y Copas I dropped in here on my way from the bus station to my accommodation. It wasn´t far of closing time for the afternoon siesta, essentially they had stopped serving food. Not to worry, the waitress was happy to serve up a hot pork & cheese sandwich with my beer. Again, it’s the staff that make the place.

Bodeguita Albero I was looking for dinner on route to Flamenqueria, “Orillas de Triana” and came across this place. What a find! Cannot recommend it enough. Simple, clean decor, great menu with plenty of choice and serves the best Rulo de Cabra Caramelizado, I have ever tasted. I took advice from the waiter and downsized my ensaladilla de casa to a tapa portion in preference to a medio racion. He was right! A half portion would have been way too much and the tapa left just enough room for me to try a dessert. I was not disappointed, it was divine. It was so good I went back the next night. Might sound boring but……..

Where did I hang my hat?

In two different neighborhoods and in two contrasting styles of accommodation. Both equally as good but different. Right, from the off, let’s start with locations and the welcomes.

Mid December 2023 I stayed at Feria Palace Apartment. On the east side, close to Almeda de Hercules. I was made welcome by my host Daniel, we had quite a chat. The apartment was lovely, everything I needed was on hand. And the best part of this experience, the setting, a beautiful building with a traditional Sevillian patio. The bedroom is a mezzanine, just so pretty. Who knows what is hidden behind those insignificant wood doors.

Moving on to April 2024 I moved to the west side of the river. The welcome – an email when I made the booking 3 months ago. Nothing wrong with that, it contained all the necessary information for an easy check-in I just forgot to read it again! Only personal contact with the host a quick phone call when I was on the street looking for the “puerta” but nevertheless a great place to stay. “Villa Triana“ the name of my home for the weekend. Big hint here? Mmm sort of, it’s in Triana but it’s not a villa.

I hope you are lucky enough to get the opportunity to visit Seville and enjoy what it has to offer. If you swing by or stop at any of the places mentioned here let them know where you got the tip. Muchas gracias. Happy & safe travelling.

A long road? Not as long as the last one! Again reached by bus from Malaga. Journey time 3 hours 45 minutes, with a comfort break in Granada. An observation, if you want to stay on good terms with the driver don’t march up behind him and demand “in English” when he’s delivering his loading instructions! People never cease to amaze.

On board, sit back, relax and enjoy the view. Spring time landscape! Various shades of green, with flowers blooming in red, yellow and purple after some much needed rain. Surrounded by olive groves of inland Andalucia, the town is set in Jaen province.

What’s on offer?

A collection of churches? Yes but there’s more. Palaces and mansions, beautiful renaissance buildings. It´s an architectural delight.

Santa Maria de Ubeda on Plaza de Vazquez de Molina Square one of the towns’ most notable landmarks. Inside it’s stunning and surprisingly light.

Head from here to the Paseo de la Redonda de Miradores (Paseo de las Muralles) for breathtaking views of Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas / Sierra Magina. No fotos folks. My photography skills wouldn’t do these vistas justice. You need to go see for yourself and the light changes everything. It’s a circular walk and I would definitely recommend a stop along the way at Suspiro Gastrobar.

Sinagoga del Agua an interesting and tranquil place. Not an attraction I’d heard of but suggested by my hosts. Definitely worth a look but it’s guided tours only. Two things to note. 1. The tour is in Spanish. Written information is available in English. 2. If you want to book on-line and are a solo traveler, no can do. Minimum booking is for 2 people. INICIO – English – Sinagoga del Agua

Palacio Vela de los Cobos now this is a place I wanted to see. But how do you get in? Book a tour (usually 2 per day) at the Semur office, across the street, a few doors up. Seems simple enough?

As you approach you see a lady locking up and leaving. Ah, the office is closed, she needs to nip out. No problem, you come back 10 minutes later and look through the glass door. No one to be seen behind the counter. You assume lady is still MIA. Wrong. Try the door, she’s not sitting behind the counter you can see, she’s hiding behind a high counter to your right, out of sight. And guess what, the next scheduled tour, that fits your plan, is completo.

Note to self, even if the place looks empty, try the door. Palacio Vela de los Cobos, one for next time!

Finding Flamenco

Hospital de Santiago Ayuntamiento de Úbeda – Portal Turístico – Hospital de Santiago (turismodeubeda.com) Not only a fabulous building but the beautiful setting for the concert that brought me here, amongst other things. Sandra Carrasco, David de Arahal and Los Mellis de Huelva performing “Recordando a Marchena” in the Auditorium. Carrasco & de Arahal have released the book-album “Remembering Marchena”, which includes texts by the journalist, writer and Flamenco critic Manuel Martin Martin, as well as recordings made during the concert tour. The show pays tribute to the figure of Pepe Marchena.

Eateries

Let’s start with breakfast: Cafeteria Las Flores offers good coffee and a great selection of tostadas. Pleasant atmosphere with seating inside and out. Churreria & Cafeteria Nazaries again good coffee and tostadas but the star of the show was definitely the churros! Both places hit the mark on quality and value for money. Pleasant staff.

Lunch or Dinner? I’ve already mentioned Suspiro. So moving on, Cafe Libra on Plaza de Andalucia is fine spot to dine and people watch, opposite El Torre del Reloj. A tapa comes with your drink, they offer a good Menu Del Dia and a more than decent selection of Raciones and Bocadillos. Tuna omelet sandwich – don’t knock it till you’ve tried it.

And to finish off. How about an ice cream? Valencianos is the place to go as recommended by Manolo.

Outdoor pursuits your thing or some sketching?

From the Paseo de la Redonda de Miradores (Paseo de las Muralles) you can access bike and hiking routes, through this marvelous landscape. And if you fancy visiting the neighboring town of Baeza, there’s a cycle route between the two. If your more artistic than sporty then you need out get out quick to grab your spot for the best views, this town has to offer. Or you could set up shop in the bus station, quite a studio!

My Accommodation

Alojamiento Discover Ubeda (via Booking.com other booking platforms are available) Situated at the top of Calle Real, in the heart of the centro historico. A prime location. A short walk, 10 mins from the bus station. What did I like? Everything! This place was spotless and had everything I needed. It was beautifully decorated and very comfortable. But what stood out? The welcome! My host Manolo went the extra mile with a mini tour of the town, courtesy of him and his partner Paula, to help me get my bearings.

Would I stay here again? Without a doubt. However, one thing to point out. It’s on the corner of a busy street of restaurants. These open late and close even later as in the early morning hours. When I come back, I´ll be packing ear plugs just in case.

Back to the start @ the bus station

I’m a fan of the Alsa app. I’ve said it before. Its easy to use, guarantees your seat and saves you queuing. But here’s a tip when you are searching for your trip check the journey details and make a note. The main connecting station and the final destination may not be where you’re headed but they may be the only places listed on the departure board.

Granada is connection central. So, if your heading to Ubeda and there are 3 buses leaving Malaga at the same time, how do you know which one is yours. If you don’t speak Spanish, finding out might be a bit of a challenge. Hence, check the route before clicking that button, to book.

Feedback & sharing! If you visit any of the places I’ve featured, I hope you’re not disappointed and please let them know who led you to their door. Muchas gracias.

I’ve left Malaga province and Andalucia.

I’m in Alicante! How did I get here? By bus from Malaga (utilize the Alsa App). It’s a cheap option.

If you choose the train, it’s via Madrid. I’m not averse to driving but that brings other things into play. Where will I park? Will I need a car in the city? No, it’s compact.

What did I see along the way? Random acts of kindness and the gateways of 10 towns.

Who did I meet on my journey?

Anahit, of Armenian descent, she is a pop singer, independent artist and composer living in Grandad, Spain. When we met she was on her way to Alicante for a recording session. She performs anything from pop with a Latino sound to Pink Floyd covers. You can find her music on Spotify.

Alicante

City & Beach that’s the slogan and it sits between two castles! Capital of Alicante province in the Valencian Community. Castell de Santa Barbara watches over the city.

Basilica of Santa María sits at the foot of the mountain

Esplanada de España

This beautiful paseo runs parallel to the port and is lined by palm trees. The floor of marble tiles, forms a wave effect. In summertime, home to the Alicante Craft Fair and throughout the year it hosts stalls selling souvenirs of all kinds. Ideal for a stroll and a spot of browsing. You will also find the open-air auditorium known as “La Concho” which hosts concerts and cultural events. Not forgetting the streets and plazas that sit behind.

Plaza de Toros

Home to the Alicante Bullfighting Museum and Municipal Bullfighting School. Controversial but none the less part of Spanish culture and history and this tradition is deeply rooted in Alicante. The site of the present bullring dates back to 1849. The current school was founded in April 1998 and caters for 20 -25 students.

MACA (Museu d’Art Contemporani d’ Alacant)

The Twentieth Century Art Collection (donated to the city by Eusebio Sempere) is the cornerstone of this museum. The 177 pieces on show include sculptures, paintings and graphic work from the 1920’s until the early 1980’s. The collection contains masterpieces that represent the primary names and movement in Spanish art. It’s a diverse and interesting display.

Why Alicante? A Concert. Fundacion Mediterraneo Alicante

Concierto Extraordinario de Flamenco – “Miradas”. A flamenco recital performed by two friends. Alejandro Hurtado, guitarist and David Dominguez, percussion are perfectly complemented by Inmaculada Salomon, prima ballerina. Three exceptionally talented artists, who meet, interact and enhance each other to give a mesmerizing performance. An audio and visual delight.

Alejandro Hurtado has been studying classical guitar since he was nine years old. At the same time he trained in flamenco guitar under many notable artists including the legendary Arturo Cerreduela “El Nani”. He has accompanied great figures of singing including Mayte Martin & Miguel Poveda. He has also performed as a soloist with orchestras at some of Spain’s most prestigious theatres and auditoriums. Career highlights and most recent achievements, include performing at the New York Flamenco Festival and the Aranjuez Concert at the Palau de la Musica, Catalana. His second album “Tamiz” marks his beginning as a composer as well as a performer and several pieces feature in the program. Alejandro Hurtado (alejandrohurtadoguitar.com)

Dominguez, is self taught and began to learn flamenco percussion as a teenager. Throughout his career he has accompanied and collaborated numerous famous artists and has participated in projects involving various musical styles away from flamenco, such as jazz fusion & classical.

Imaculada Salomon has belonged to the Spanish National Ballet since 2006 and is the principal dancer. She combines this work with other projects and collaborations outside the company. She has also trained in theatre and mindfulness and is a Dance for Parkinson’s instructor through the Dance for PD program. Inmaculada Salomón – Ballet Nacional de España (mcu.es)

PROGRAM

Danza del Molinero (M. de Falla). Panaderos (A. Hurtado). Habanera (A. Hurtado). Sevilla (I. Albéniz). Petenera (A. Hurtado). Tangos (A. Hurtado) Soleá (J. Arcas). Guajira (E. Pujol). Bulerías (A. Hurtado). Gran Jota de Concierto (F. Tárrega)

So much to see and do but don’t forget to stop relax & eat!

Dulcina – Cafe Typical Spanish breakfasts on offer, great quality at a good price. Friendly staff, service with a smile. Ticks all the boxes.

Cerveceria Capri Another option for breakfast. Frequented by locals, always a good sign. Good value, great service, nothing a bother.

CasaBlanca Restaurante-Bar & Music Delicious food. Chilled laidback atmosphere. Outside dining on a spacious plaza

Restaurante Carmen Don’t speak Spanish? You’ll be fine, the waiter doesn’t either! Fresh food, cooked to order served with a smile on a pleasant terrace. All good.

La Cocina Del Buen Comer “Menu del dia” served with a smile, staff only to happy to make recommendations. A varied menu on offer meat, fish, pasta and not forgetting a coffee or dessert.

La Porteña – Cafe Bar Great place for a glass of wine and dessert but lots more on offer too. Very pleasant staff, friendly welcome.

Accommodation

“Quarto con banheiro privado em apartamento familiar”. What do your get? Double room with private bathroom. Ideally situated with all the city attractions within walking distance. Booked via Booking.com (other accommodation booking platforms are available). This is a very affordable option for a weekend city break and my first experience of a “homestay”.

Would I do it again? The jury is still out. This is not a negative reflection on the accommodation. The room was more than adequate. Had everything I needed and was very clean. The same goes for the bathroom. It’s personal thing. Ultimately, you are in someone else’s space. I was conscious of causing a disturbance with the timing of my comings and goings. Again, this is not a reflection on my hosts. After a warm welcome at check-in I hardly saw them.

Feedback & Sharing

As ever, if you visit any of the places I’ve recommended, I hope you have an enjoyable experience. Please let them know, who led you, to their door. Muchas Gracias.

The Skyline & History

Two hilltop citadels, the Alcazaba and ruined Gibralfaro. The two are not connected and it’s a decent walk/climb from one to the other but the reward is amazing views in all directions. Reminders of the city’s Moorish past. They tower above the bustling streets and the renaissance Cathedral, nicked named ‘La Manquita‘, the one armed lady. The second tower remains unbuilt.

Art

Malaga is probably best know as the birth place of Pablo Picasso and you can’t go far without seeing a reference to the great artist.

Museums and there are plenty, offer up something for everyone. Most host a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. The centro historico is home to the Picasso Museum and also Casa Natal de Picasso (the house of his birth). Note, Casa Natal de Picasso offers a dual ticket with entry to another space displaying the artists work, in a neighboring street.

More art

In addition, there’s the Carmen Thyssen and Museo de Malaga – The Customs Palace, home to both the Malaga Provincial Museum of Fine Arts and the Provincial Archaeological Museum. The basement is a positive Aladdin’s cave filled with curiosities.

Moving out of the centro historico. Down in the port, on Muelle Uno, you’ll find the Centre Pomidou. Likened to a Rubik Cube and a sight in itself. A short walk will take you to La Malagueta and the eastern beachfront. La Malagueta is also home to the city’s Plaza de Toros. This venue provides a great amphitheater for concerts and hosts exhibitions through links to La Termica, Centre of Contemporary Culture.

At La Termica there is no permanent collection, only temporary exhibitions. Its a beautiful building with andalucian style decor, light and airy. It’s situated in the west of the city, Av. de los Guindos, 48, 29004 and easily accessible from the western seafront. View the website latermicamalaga.com to find out what’s on at the time of your visit. If you’re a resident or on a longer stay, check out the courses on offer. There’s a diverse program. Collage to cooking or dance to design technology. A great annual event, hosted here is ‘Vinarama‘. It spans three days and is usually held in October/November. It’s a chance to sample wines from local bodegas and buy direct. There’s artisan food, talks & demonstrations, digital art, concerts, DJ sessions. It has lots to offer in a relaxed and sociable atmosphere.

Another top choice for me is the CAC Malaga, Centre of Contemporary Art. It can be found very close to Centro Alamada train station. La Termica & CAC Malaga are free to enter, whilst some other sites and museums around the city offer free admission after 4pm on Sundays.

Performing Arts

If theatre’s your thing, the prominent venues are the Cervantes, on the outskirts of the centro historico and Teatro del Soho Caixabank. This theatre in the Soho district, just off Alamada Principal. It’s a welcoming and modern space promoted by another famous Malagueño, Antonio Banderas. Banderas will direct the musical Gypsy when it is produced by the theatre in October of this year, 2024.

Shop shop shop

Let’s not forget the shopping opportunities! The port offers some light, airy outlets with some enticing restaurants in between. Calle Larios is the main thoroughfare with high street chains. You can’t miss it but not to be confused with the Larios Shopping Centre in another part of the city.

Stop & re-fuel

Looking for a room or just coffee & cake? Dulces Dreams Cafe & Hostel offer both. Situated in front of the ‘Holy Martyrs’ church, it’s in an excellent location. Don’t be put off by the term ‘hostel’. I’ve stayed here and the rooms are clean, light and airy.

Rou Mate Cafe Bar offers up a great selection of fine brunches and more.

Las Merchanas offers typical Spanish cuisine, in a bar with traditional decor.

Casa Lola (there is more than one) also offers up a great selection of dishes with a Mediterranean feel to the menu.

Wine got a mention earlier and there are loads of bars to choose from. For a slightly different experience you could try Antigua Casa de Guardia, Alameda Principal (with a side entrance). It’s facade doesn’t immediately standout. It could be easily missed on a busy afternoon. The wines on offer are served straight from the barrel. Choose on your preference light to dark. Your tastings (tab) will be chalked down on the bar top!

Best of both worlds

Malaga offers it’s visitors just that. The east and western beach fronts are a great place to relax and there’s a fine choice of traditional chringuitos either side of the port area. Combine that with the chance to experience Spanish culture in compact and vibrant city and you’ve got yourself a great destination. But for accommodation, be that for choice or budget consider staying in one of the nearby coastal towns.

It’s super easy to access the city, via the C1, which runs Malaga Centre Alameda – Fuengirola. The line has numerous stops including the popular resorts of Torremolinos & Benalmadena (Aroyo de la Miel). See dodgy illustration below. Or you could use the local bus service. The towns mentioned have services that will take you directly to Estacion Muelle Heredia, in the port.

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If you visit any of the places I’ve recommended, I hope you have an enjoyable experience. Please let them know, who led you, to their door. Muchas Gracias.

The starting point, what better place than Fuengirola!

A vibrant coastal town that I have made my home. Situated on the Costa del Sol in Malaga province, it has loads to offer. Easily accessible with a direct train link from Malaga airport. If you’re looking for sun, sand and sea – you’ve got them but there’s so much more here.

Life in motion

There’s rarely a quiet time but here are some notable events on the annual calendar. Visit: www.fuengirola.es Semana Santa (Easter) a great time to check out the traditional parades. Recinto Ferial – The Fairground. A notable landmark in town with numerous Peñas and the location of the town’s largest theatre Palacio de La Luz. In May, the town hosts the Feria Internacional de Los Pueblos, a meeting point for different countries and cultures from around the world. In short, it’s a foodfest but don’t miss out on the parades. Bands and dance troops in national costume are out in force. The summer months – Parque del Castillo is home to Marenostrum Fuengirola. Check out their website for the full programme of outdoor concerts. Feria de la Virgen del Rosario, known locally as “Feria de Fuengirola” happens in October, lots of fun and tradition in spectacular colour. The Peñas come to life, offering live music & dancing throughout the afternoons & nights and once darkness sets in, the lights are spectacular. There’s usually a great programme of concerts in Palacio de La Paz. Recinto Ferial is also home to our markets on Tuesdays (regular) and Saturdays (second hand). Throughout the Christmas period (Navidad) nativity scenes can be found in the town’s squares and shop windows. The street decorations in themselves are a sight to see. Then we look forward to the night of the Three Kings (Epiphany) January 6th, the day dedicated to children. The Three Kings arrive in Fuengirola late afternoon and tour the town in a grand parade, gifting sweets to the throngs of folk, young and old, lining the streets!

Like art?

El Boquetillo is a neighbourhood in the western part of the town without boudaries. It’s home to some incredible ‘street art’. The buildings surrounding and indeed the Mercado Del Boquetilo itself, have been transformed into canvases for prestigious local artists Nesui, Kato, Lalone and Mon Devane. After appreciating the amazing murals, have a break in a churreria or cafeteria and grab some churros and chocolate, support the community.

Museo de la Cuidad

Deserves a mention. It’s a small space but showcases some great stuff, depending on your interests. To be found in Calle Maria Josefa Larrucea 3, next to the Town Hall. Currently home to ‘FAMA‘ Fotografas Artistas Malageuñas 8th March till 21st April 2024. A notable past exhibition, Art on Vinyl 2022, displayed Rock & Roll imagery by Antonio La Fuente Del Pozo and included 350 album covers from the 1940’s onwards – just to give you a flavour of what you might find and it’s free.

Let’s talk food

Plaza de la Constitucion is at the centre of the town and you’ll find restaurants & bars to suit every taste & budget in the surrounding streets. La Esqina de Chinorros offers what I’d describe as Spanish with some twists. Mercado La Galeria has something for everyone . Explore this square, but don´t limit yourself to it, get out into the neighborhoods, is my advice. Focusing on typical dishes – let’s start with breakfast. Why not try a ‘tostada con aceite y tomate‘ or, a personal favourite of mine, ‘pitufo catalan‘ those served at ‘Mi Cafe, Bar‘ in Calle Malaga are second to none and believe me, I’ve done plenty of testing! For ‘tapas‘, I recommend ‘En Tiempo de Maria Castaña‘, in Calle San Pancracio or a little further a field ‘Taberna la Abuela‘, in Los Boliches.

Foot note: for those who might want to catch a game, be it football, rugby, golf. ‘The Temple Bar‘ is a great spot.

Out & about

Head west along the Paseo Maritimo Rey de Española and you’ll arrive at the Puente de la Armada España spanning the river and opposite Parque del Castillo. Enjoy the views. Head east to Los Boliches and Carvajal just follow the paseo. The seafront is lined with chiringuitos, too numerous to mention, choose your own spot.

Come visit !

The infrastructure here is great for exploring. Numerous routes/destinations are on offer from the town’s busy bus station or you can use Malaga as a hub to widen your horizons.

Feedback & Sharing

If you visit any of the places I’ve recommended, I hope you have an enjoyable experience and please let them know, who led you, to their door. Muchas gracias.