Snapshots

A long road? Not as long as the last one! Again reached by bus from Malaga. Journey time 3 hours 45 minutes, with a comfort break in Granada. An observation, if you want to stay on good terms with the driver don’t march up behind him and demand “in English” when he’s delivering his loading instructions! People never cease to amaze.

On board, sit back, relax and enjoy the view. Spring time landscape! Various shades of green, with flowers blooming in red, yellow and purple after some much needed rain. Surrounded by olive groves of inland Andalucia, the town is set in Jaen province.

What’s on offer?

A collection of churches? Yes but there’s more. Palaces and mansions, beautiful renaissance buildings. It´s an architectural delight.

Santa Maria de Ubeda on Plaza de Vazquez de Molina Square one of the towns’ most notable landmarks. Inside it’s stunning and surprisingly light.

Head from here to the Paseo de la Redonda de Miradores (Paseo de las Muralles) for breathtaking views of Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas / Sierra Magina. No fotos folks. My photography skills wouldn’t do these vistas justice. You need to go see for yourself and the light changes everything. It’s a circular walk and I would definitely recommend a stop along the way at Suspiro Gastrobar.

Sinagoga del Agua an interesting and tranquil place. Not an attraction I’d heard of but suggested by my hosts. Definitely worth a look but it’s guided tours only. Two things to note. 1. The tour is in Spanish. Written information is available in English. 2. If you want to book on-line and are a solo traveler, no can do. Minimum booking is for 2 people. INICIO – English – Sinagoga del Agua

Palacio Vela de los Cobos now this is a place I wanted to see. But how do you get in? Book a tour (usually 2 per day) at the Semur office, across the street, a few doors up. Seems simple enough?

As you approach you see a lady locking up and leaving. Ah, the office is closed, she needs to nip out. No problem, you come back 10 minutes later and look through the glass door. No one to be seen behind the counter. You assume lady is still MIA. Wrong. Try the door, she’s not sitting behind the counter you can see, she’s hiding behind a high counter to your right, out of sight. And guess what, the next scheduled tour, that fits your plan, is completo.

Note to self, even if the place looks empty, try the door. Palacio Vela de los Cobos, one for next time!

Finding Flamenco

Hospital de Santiago Ayuntamiento de Úbeda – Portal Turístico – Hospital de Santiago (turismodeubeda.com) Not only a fabulous building but the beautiful setting for the concert that brought me here, amongst other things. Sandra Carrasco, David de Arahal and Los Mellis de Huelva performing “Recordando a Marchena” in the Auditorium. Carrasco & de Arahal have released the book-album “Remembering Marchena”, which includes texts by the journalist, writer and Flamenco critic Manuel Martin Martin, as well as recordings made during the concert tour. The show pays tribute to the figure of Pepe Marchena.

Eateries

Let’s start with breakfast: Cafeteria Las Flores offers good coffee and a great selection of tostadas. Pleasant atmosphere with seating inside and out. Churreria & Cafeteria Nazaries again good coffee and tostadas but the star of the show was definitely the churros! Both places hit the mark on quality and value for money. Pleasant staff.

Lunch or Dinner? I’ve already mentioned Suspiro. So moving on, Cafe Libra on Plaza de Andalucia is fine spot to dine and people watch, opposite El Torre del Reloj. A tapa comes with your drink, they offer a good Menu Del Dia and a more than decent selection of Raciones and Bocadillos. Tuna omelet sandwich – don’t knock it till you’ve tried it.

And to finish off. How about an ice cream? Valencianos is the place to go as recommended by Manolo.

Outdoor pursuits your thing or some sketching?

From the Paseo de la Redonda de Miradores (Paseo de las Muralles) you can access bike and hiking routes, through this marvelous landscape. And if you fancy visiting the neighboring town of Baeza, there’s a cycle route between the two. If your more artistic than sporty then you need out get out quick to grab your spot for the best views, this town has to offer. Or you could set up shop in the bus station, quite a studio!

My Accommodation

Alojamiento Discover Ubeda (via Booking.com other booking platforms are available) Situated at the top of Calle Real, in the heart of the centro historico. A prime location. A short walk, 10 mins from the bus station. What did I like? Everything! This place was spotless and had everything I needed. It was beautifully decorated and very comfortable. But what stood out? The welcome! My host Manolo went the extra mile with a mini tour of the town, courtesy of him and his partner Paula, to help me get my bearings.

Would I stay here again? Without a doubt. However, one thing to point out. It’s on the corner of a busy street of restaurants. These open late and close even later as in the early morning hours. When I come back, I´ll be packing ear plugs just in case.

Back to the start @ the bus station

I’m a fan of the Alsa app. I’ve said it before. Its easy to use, guarantees your seat and saves you queuing. But here’s a tip when you are searching for your trip check the journey details and make a note. The main connecting station and the final destination may not be where you’re headed but they may be the only places listed on the departure board.

Granada is connection central. So, if your heading to Ubeda and there are 3 buses leaving Malaga at the same time, how do you know which one is yours. If you don’t speak Spanish, finding out might be a bit of a challenge. Hence, check the route before clicking that button, to book.

Feedback & sharing! If you visit any of the places I’ve featured, I hope you’re not disappointed and please let them know who led you to their door. Muchas gracias.

I’ve left Malaga province and Andalucia.

I’m in Alicante! How did I get here? By bus from Malaga (utilize the Alsa App). It’s a cheap option.

If you choose the train, it’s via Madrid. I’m not averse to driving but that brings other things into play. Where will I park? Will I need a car in the city? No, it’s compact.

What did I see along the way? Random acts of kindness and the gateways of 10 towns.

Who did I meet on my journey?

Anahit, of Armenian descent, she is a pop singer, independent artist and composer living in Grandad, Spain. When we met she was on her way to Alicante for a recording session. She performs anything from pop with a Latino sound to Pink Floyd covers. You can find her music on Spotify.

Alicante

City & Beach that’s the slogan and it sits between two castles! Capital of Alicante province in the Valencian Community. Castell de Santa Barbara watches over the city.

Basilica of Santa María sits at the foot of the mountain

Esplanada de España

This beautiful paseo runs parallel to the port and is lined by palm trees. The floor of marble tiles, forms a wave effect. In summertime, home to the Alicante Craft Fair and throughout the year it hosts stalls selling souvenirs of all kinds. Ideal for a stroll and a spot of browsing. You will also find the open-air auditorium known as “La Concho” which hosts concerts and cultural events. Not forgetting the streets and plazas that sit behind.

Plaza de Toros

Home to the Alicante Bullfighting Museum and Municipal Bullfighting School. Controversial but none the less part of Spanish culture and history and this tradition is deeply rooted in Alicante. The site of the present bullring dates back to 1849. The current school was founded in April 1998 and caters for 20 -25 students.

MACA (Museu d’Art Contemporani d’ Alacant)

The Twentieth Century Art Collection (donated to the city by Eusebio Sempere) is the cornerstone of this museum. The 177 pieces on show include sculptures, paintings and graphic work from the 1920’s until the early 1980’s. The collection contains masterpieces that represent the primary names and movement in Spanish art. It’s a diverse and interesting display.

Why Alicante? A Concert. Fundacion Mediterraneo Alicante

Concierto Extraordinario de Flamenco – “Miradas”. A flamenco recital performed by two friends. Alejandro Hurtado, guitarist and David Dominguez, percussion are perfectly complemented by Inmaculada Salomon, prima ballerina. Three exceptionally talented artists, who meet, interact and enhance each other to give a mesmerizing performance. An audio and visual delight.

Alejandro Hurtado has been studying classical guitar since he was nine years old. At the same time he trained in flamenco guitar under many notable artists including the legendary Arturo Cerreduela “El Nani”. He has accompanied great figures of singing including Mayte Martin & Miguel Poveda. He has also performed as a soloist with orchestras at some of Spain’s most prestigious theatres and auditoriums. Career highlights and most recent achievements, include performing at the New York Flamenco Festival and the Aranjuez Concert at the Palau de la Musica, Catalana. His second album “Tamiz” marks his beginning as a composer as well as a performer and several pieces feature in the program. Alejandro Hurtado (alejandrohurtadoguitar.com)

Dominguez, is self taught and began to learn flamenco percussion as a teenager. Throughout his career he has accompanied and collaborated numerous famous artists and has participated in projects involving various musical styles away from flamenco, such as jazz fusion & classical.

Imaculada Salomon has belonged to the Spanish National Ballet since 2006 and is the principal dancer. She combines this work with other projects and collaborations outside the company. She has also trained in theatre and mindfulness and is a Dance for Parkinson’s instructor through the Dance for PD program. Inmaculada Salomón – Ballet Nacional de España (mcu.es)

PROGRAM

Danza del Molinero (M. de Falla). Panaderos (A. Hurtado). Habanera (A. Hurtado). Sevilla (I. Albéniz). Petenera (A. Hurtado). Tangos (A. Hurtado) Soleá (J. Arcas). Guajira (E. Pujol). Bulerías (A. Hurtado). Gran Jota de Concierto (F. Tárrega)

So much to see and do but don’t forget to stop relax & eat!

Dulcina – Cafe Typical Spanish breakfasts on offer, great quality at a good price. Friendly staff, service with a smile. Ticks all the boxes.

Cerveceria Capri Another option for breakfast. Frequented by locals, always a good sign. Good value, great service, nothing a bother.

CasaBlanca Restaurante-Bar & Music Delicious food. Chilled laidback atmosphere. Outside dining on a spacious plaza

Restaurante Carmen Don’t speak Spanish? You’ll be fine, the waiter doesn’t either! Fresh food, cooked to order served with a smile on a pleasant terrace. All good.

La Cocina Del Buen Comer “Menu del dia” served with a smile, staff only to happy to make recommendations. A varied menu on offer meat, fish, pasta and not forgetting a coffee or dessert.

La Porteña – Cafe Bar Great place for a glass of wine and dessert but lots more on offer too. Very pleasant staff, friendly welcome.

Accommodation

“Quarto con banheiro privado em apartamento familiar”. What do your get? Double room with private bathroom. Ideally situated with all the city attractions within walking distance. Booked via Booking.com (other accommodation booking platforms are available). This is a very affordable option for a weekend city break and my first experience of a “homestay”.

Would I do it again? The jury is still out. This is not a negative reflection on the accommodation. The room was more than adequate. Had everything I needed and was very clean. The same goes for the bathroom. It’s personal thing. Ultimately, you are in someone else’s space. I was conscious of causing a disturbance with the timing of my comings and goings. Again, this is not a reflection on my hosts. After a warm welcome at check-in I hardly saw them.

Feedback & Sharing

As ever, if you visit any of the places I’ve recommended, I hope you have an enjoyable experience. Please let them know, who led you, to their door. Muchas Gracias.

The Skyline & History

Two hilltop citadels, the Alcazaba and ruined Gibralfaro. The two are not connected and it’s a decent walk/climb from one to the other but the reward is amazing views in all directions. Reminders of the city’s Moorish past. They tower above the bustling streets and the renaissance Cathedral, nicked named ‘La Manquita‘, the one armed lady. The second tower remains unbuilt.

Art

Malaga is probably best know as the birth place of Pablo Picasso and you can’t go far without seeing a reference to the great artist.

Museums and there are plenty, offer up something for everyone. Most host a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. The centro historico is home to the Picasso Museum and also Casa Natal de Picasso (the house of his birth). Note, Casa Natal de Picasso offers a dual ticket with entry to another space displaying the artists work, in a neighboring street.

More art

In addition, there’s the Carmen Thyssen and Museo de Malaga – The Customs Palace, home to both the Malaga Provincial Museum of Fine Arts and the Provincial Archaeological Museum. The basement is a positive Aladdin’s cave filled with curiosities.

Moving out of the centro historico. Down in the port, on Muelle Uno, you’ll find the Centre Pomidou. Likened to a Rubik Cube and a sight in itself. A short walk will take you to La Malagueta and the eastern beachfront. La Malagueta is also home to the city’s Plaza de Toros. This venue provides a great amphitheater for concerts and hosts exhibitions through links to La Termica, Centre of Contemporary Culture.

At La Termica there is no permanent collection, only temporary exhibitions. Its a beautiful building with andalucian style decor, light and airy. It’s situated in the west of the city, Av. de los Guindos, 48, 29004 and easily accessible from the western seafront. View the website latermicamalaga.com to find out what’s on at the time of your visit. If you’re a resident or on a longer stay, check out the courses on offer. There’s a diverse program. Collage to cooking or dance to design technology. A great annual event, hosted here is ‘Vinarama‘. It spans three days and is usually held in October/November. It’s a chance to sample wines from local bodegas and buy direct. There’s artisan food, talks & demonstrations, digital art, concerts, DJ sessions. It has lots to offer in a relaxed and sociable atmosphere.

Another top choice for me is the CAC Malaga, Centre of Contemporary Art. It can be found very close to Centro Alamada train station. La Termica & CAC Malaga are free to enter, whilst some other sites and museums around the city offer free admission after 4pm on Sundays.

Performing Arts

If theatre’s your thing, the prominent venues are the Cervantes, on the outskirts of the centro historico and Teatro del Soho Caixabank. This theatre in the Soho district, just off Alamada Principal. It’s a welcoming and modern space promoted by another famous Malagueño, Antonio Banderas. Banderas will direct the musical Gypsy when it is produced by the theatre in October of this year, 2024.

Shop shop shop

Let’s not forget the shopping opportunities! The port offers some light, airy outlets with some enticing restaurants in between. Calle Larios is the main thoroughfare with high street chains. You can’t miss it but not to be confused with the Larios Shopping Centre in another part of the city.

Stop & re-fuel

Looking for a room or just coffee & cake? Dulces Dreams Cafe & Hostel offer both. Situated in front of the ‘Holy Martyrs’ church, it’s in an excellent location. Don’t be put off by the term ‘hostel’. I’ve stayed here and the rooms are clean, light and airy.

Rou Mate Cafe Bar offers up a great selection of fine brunches and more.

Las Merchanas offers typical Spanish cuisine, in a bar with traditional decor.

Casa Lola (there is more than one) also offers up a great selection of dishes with a Mediterranean feel to the menu.

Wine got a mention earlier and there are loads of bars to choose from. For a slightly different experience you could try Antigua Casa de Guardia, Alameda Principal (with a side entrance). It’s facade doesn’t immediately standout. It could be easily missed on a busy afternoon. The wines on offer are served straight from the barrel. Choose on your preference light to dark. Your tastings (tab) will be chalked down on the bar top!

Best of both worlds

Malaga offers it’s visitors just that. The east and western beach fronts are a great place to relax and there’s a fine choice of traditional chringuitos either side of the port area. Combine that with the chance to experience Spanish culture in compact and vibrant city and you’ve got yourself a great destination. But for accommodation, be that for choice or budget consider staying in one of the nearby coastal towns.

It’s super easy to access the city, via the C1, which runs Malaga Centre Alameda – Fuengirola. The line has numerous stops including the popular resorts of Torremolinos & Benalmadena (Aroyo de la Miel). See dodgy illustration below. Or you could use the local bus service. The towns mentioned have services that will take you directly to Estacion Muelle Heredia, in the port.

Feedback & Sharing

If you visit any of the places I’ve recommended, I hope you have an enjoyable experience. Please let them know, who led you, to their door. Muchas Gracias.

The starting point, what better place than Fuengirola!

A vibrant coastal town that I have made my home. Situated on the Costa del Sol in Malaga province, it has loads to offer. Easily accessible with a direct train link from Malaga airport. If you’re looking for sun, sand and sea – you’ve got them but there’s so much more here.

Life in motion

There’s rarely a quiet time but here are some notable events on the annual calendar. Visit: www.fuengirola.es Semana Santa (Easter) a great time to check out the traditional parades. Recinto Ferial – The Fairground. A notable landmark in town with numerous Peñas and the location of the town’s largest theatre Palacio de La Luz. In May, the town hosts the Feria Internacional de Los Pueblos, a meeting point for different countries and cultures from around the world. In short, it’s a foodfest but don’t miss out on the parades. Bands and dance troops in national costume are out in force. The summer months – Parque del Castillo is home to Marenostrum Fuengirola. Check out their website for the full programme of outdoor concerts. Feria de la Virgen del Rosario, known locally as “Feria de Fuengirola” happens in October, lots of fun and tradition in spectacular colour. The Peñas come to life, offering live music & dancing throughout the afternoons & nights and once darkness sets in, the lights are spectacular. There’s usually a great programme of concerts in Palacio de La Paz. Recinto Ferial is also home to our markets on Tuesdays (regular) and Saturdays (second hand). Throughout the Christmas period (Navidad) nativity scenes can be found in the town’s squares and shop windows. The street decorations in themselves are a sight to see. Then we look forward to the night of the Three Kings (Epiphany) January 6th, the day dedicated to children. The Three Kings arrive in Fuengirola late afternoon and tour the town in a grand parade, gifting sweets to the throngs of folk, young and old, lining the streets!

Like art?

El Boquetillo is a neighbourhood in the western part of the town without boudaries. It’s home to some incredible ‘street art’. The buildings surrounding and indeed the Mercado Del Boquetilo itself, have been transformed into canvases for prestigious local artists Nesui, Kato, Lalone and Mon Devane. After appreciating the amazing murals, have a break in a churreria or cafeteria and grab some churros and chocolate, support the community.

Museo de la Cuidad

Deserves a mention. It’s a small space but showcases some great stuff, depending on your interests. To be found in Calle Maria Josefa Larrucea 3, next to the Town Hall. Currently home to ‘FAMA‘ Fotografas Artistas Malageuñas 8th March till 21st April 2024. A notable past exhibition, Art on Vinyl 2022, displayed Rock & Roll imagery by Antonio La Fuente Del Pozo and included 350 album covers from the 1940’s onwards – just to give you a flavour of what you might find and it’s free.

Let’s talk food

Plaza de la Constitucion is at the centre of the town and you’ll find restaurants & bars to suit every taste & budget in the surrounding streets. La Esqina de Chinorros offers what I’d describe as Spanish with some twists. Mercado La Galeria has something for everyone . Explore this square, but don´t limit yourself to it, get out into the neighborhoods, is my advice. Focusing on typical dishes – let’s start with breakfast. Why not try a ‘tostada con aceite y tomate‘ or, a personal favourite of mine, ‘pitufo catalan‘ those served at ‘Mi Cafe, Bar‘ in Calle Malaga are second to none and believe me, I’ve done plenty of testing! For ‘tapas‘, I recommend ‘En Tiempo de Maria Castaña‘, in Calle San Pancracio or a little further a field ‘Taberna la Abuela‘, in Los Boliches.

Foot note: for those who might want to catch a game, be it football, rugby, golf. ‘The Temple Bar‘ is a great spot.

Out & about

Head west along the Paseo Maritimo Rey de Española and you’ll arrive at the Puente de la Armada España spanning the river and opposite Parque del Castillo. Enjoy the views. Head east to Los Boliches and Carvajal just follow the paseo. The seafront is lined with chiringuitos, too numerous to mention, choose your own spot.

Come visit !

The infrastructure here is great for exploring. Numerous routes/destinations are on offer from the town’s busy bus station or you can use Malaga as a hub to widen your horizons.

Feedback & Sharing

If you visit any of the places I’ve recommended, I hope you have an enjoyable experience and please let them know, who led you, to their door. Muchas gracias.